Reply With QuoteRoad trip!!! Yeeeehaaaaw!
TopicToaster
I'd help all you guys out but everyone is somewhere else.
And it's a RRC you can get into with a paddlepop stick (and it has to be an early one without the little plate around the tailgate push button). Haven't mastered it with a disco yet.
Road trip!!! Yeeeehaaaaw!
TopicToaster
Hey you're selling it anyway so what does it matter?
Hahaha... Maybe selling it.... If we can find the right car at ath right price to replace it.
Until that happens, the Disco stays and so does my facsination in playing with it.
Swaggie
not so long ago I thought I was going to have to go down this path and I happened to find a product called 3-in-one professional lock lubricant...manufactured by wd40. I applied this to my ignition lock and it is now as good as new.....definitely worth a try if youre having ignition lock problems....and doors ....and any other lock you own.
Denno
My apologies for not looking at this one earlier.
I have just replaced mine, Murray at MJK discovery got me a Brand new BritPart D1 ignition ($100) had it rekeyed for my to match current key ($65) I got a 3mm drill bit, drilled into the bust off bolt drilled in a self tapper , uncrew the srew and out came the bolts... Cool.
Undo the 2 screw holding the plug on the back to swap the looms over as that is the difference between you $700 D2 one and the D1 $100. Also unclip the plastic cap on the front of the barrels and swap them as well.
New bolts are supplied so bolt it all together until the Bolt heads snap off. Srew you dash back together as I took the instrument cluster off the make access easier. and your done. New ignition with matching keys.
Very cool.
Cheers
Matt
RoverLord
Timely re-opening of an oldie.
My D2 key is starting to feel a tad tight when I try to remove it from the barrel.Not always,more like occasionally.
Is it the start of the D2 barrel issue??? Too late for a puff of graphite???
I dont do big key bundles.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Master
Darian, you can get your ignition or any other lock (off your LR) keyed to the one key. Take it to a Locksmith. I used to be a Locksmith (technically still am) many moons ago and its not hard. Make a few phone calls and see if the locksmith has the parts necessary to refurb/replace parts for Land Rovers locks for your model. Some will just use the wafers from a new lock (if you provide a new lock) if they dont have spares and you will end up with a lock with only half the wafers in it which lowers the security level of the lock a lot. Hence opening locks with a piece of wire or knife etc...Originally Posted by DM74
Regards
Mudguard
Fossicker
As previously posted I had catastrophic ignition barrel seize and was helped by a locksmith who undid the ignition switch (black plastic with wires at end of ignition housing) which got me going. I then ordered a D1 ignition set up for $150 and was told to get a locksmith to recalibrate. No probs. Doing a bit of internet research I found a guy who undid his barrel and removed a few wafers. Thought I would give this a crack and when I slid the barrel out to expose a the waffers a few flew out and the rest were left sitting in their places. I slid the key in and all the waffers dropped down and activated appropriately. I reassembled everything as normal and the key slides in with ease and works fine. The waffers that flew out seemed to be the problem ones and I now have a spare ignition coming from the east coast. Having two or three waffers missing is still going to provide good security and without deactivating the alarm or mobiliser the bus wont start any way. It may pay if you are having this problem do this and see if it works. Not a permanent fix but it just may get you out of the sh$t.
Master
Thought I would post here as I had not see a definitive answer to the many issues faced when your ignition barrel goes bad. While I had searched the forums for the answers and options, it was fragmented and it wasn't until I started the ring around that I finally understood what it all meant. hopefully this might save others some time.
Mine had seized a year or more or ago and while i had it serviced, it finally gave up this week. Frozen solid, the locksmith took one look at it and pronounced it dead as it had been serviced previously along with signs of wear and tear that would make servicing it again impractical.
So, new ignition needed, what are the options and how much.
1) New factory original D2 ignition barrel and steering lock assembly. This is the only way you can buy it new. Cost around $590 including freight from lrseries uk, quite a bit more ($7-800) if your purchasing in Aus.
Regardless freight time will be around two weeks because no matter where you purchase from it will have to come from the UK. Reason is they require your VIN so the lock can be coded to the car, and consequently you revieve a key that matches the door locks on the car. End result new barrel and your original key will operate the ignition and door locks.
2) A D1 ignition barrel and steering lock. After market options are available from Rovacraft, a Lucas at $325 and a cheaper (not sure of brand) at $250. Given that the people buying these are D2 owners already suffering from a crappy barrel, most tend to go for the better of the two. I acknowledge that this is not the final word on pricing and you could surely get them much cheaper from the UK, but when these things go wrong time is usually a factor, so I thought for the convenience, the pricing was good. Rovacraft was carrying both of these in stock at the time. Part no STC1435.
Fitting requires the switch part of the ignition from the D2 to be swapped to the new d1 unit as the plugs on the loom are different, but this is not a problem. You will receive 2 keys that are obviously going to be different from you original D2 key meaning you can either
a) just use two keys. The D1's to start the car, and the D2 to set/unset the security system and operate the door locks if necessary.
b) the locksmiths can install new wafers in to the new D1 ignition barrel to allow the use of your original D2 key. Obviously an additional charge for this, which I believe to be around $150 with fitting.
One other issue raised its head when checking all this out. The locksmith while providing excellent service and generally knowledgeable, can't know everything and was under the impression that the D2 key system involved a transponder unit, meaning that the security system would prevent the car starting unless the original key was in the lock sending a signal to release the immobilizer. This is correct to a point.
There is a passive immobilization system whereby if the car sits for longer than 5min without being locked, the engine immobilizer engages. With the original ignition and key, the immobilizer is deactivated when the key is in the ignition and turned to position 2. At this point a coil around the key entry point is energized creating an electromagnetic field which causes the key to send a signal to the alarm system that deactivates the immobilizer. Obviously if you go for option 2 (D1 ignition) then you do not have the original key in the ignition and it is not receiving the electromagnetic signal to disengage the immobilzer. In this case it simply means you need to push the unlock button on the key fob. Problem solved.
If you use the key remote to unlock the car from its locked and alarmed state then you are good to go.
Hope that clarifies the issue.
cheers
Nick
Last edited by Hastykiwi; 12th August 2011 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Figured out the passive immobilization.
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