Thread: Front Universal Joint on Front tail shaft. (Gearbox end!!)

If you have to get the whole thing replaced, I got mine done at Monaro Off Road in Quenbeyan for $800

I got mine done at Hardie Spicer in Kalgoorlie a few months ago. Was nothing wrong with it except for the tell tale squeak just starting, but I decided to get in first.

They replaced all uni joints with greasable units, re-balanced the shaft, and painted it all a nice bright blue. Can't find the docket with the cost at the moment, but the price was nothing significant from memory - I don't remember falling out of my chair when I got the bill.

Certainly no need to replace the shaft if it has not been damaged.

knox driveshafts in Ferntree gully rebuilt mine with greasable ubi joints for around $200

Uni Joint part #K5 -A757 (heavy duty) Hardy Spicer or CBC (who will supply a Hardy Spicer joint)
CBC were $55 each, but BSC motion Technology were $27 each!!!.

The joints are easy enough to replace, but if the spherical bearing in the middle is damaged, you will need a new DC joint.

Cheers

If you decide to replace the shaft completely, then I'd look at Tom Woods in the US. He is a seriously nice guy to deal with and his customer support is totally benchmark. The shafts from him are 1310 unis everywhere, not just the double cardin and the uni joints are stronger than commercial one - they are a performance part and guaranteed not to break. You will land in Australia (within 5 days) 2x Tom Woods 1310 shafts to your door for the cost of one local spicer shaft (spicer shafts are still 1300 unis at the diff end and 1310 at the transfer end).

The problem with the DC joint for Rovers, is that even though the uni joints can be made greasable, the middle bearing isn't on most. If you run standard 1300 unis and the middle bearing goes dry (which it will) and fails it then also takes out the uni joints and if not caught the shaft will fail and break on the road. The Tom Woods unis I drove for too long with a failed centre bearing and the 1310's just laughed at it. When I rebuilt the shaft I only needed to change the centre bearing as opposed to everything and the shaft is still going great guns.

The big problem though is that you can run the Spicer 1310 yolks (which Tom also used) and not have a greasable centre bearing which will still ultimately suffer from the same problem, or you can have a greasable centre bearing and not have the strength. Tom how has cast from steel (not iron) a new yolk that has allowed him to include a greasable centre bearing into the 1310 DC joint and still maintain the strength of the Spicer DC joint which does not have the greasy centre bearing.

Tom sent me 2 of these new shafts and a couple of yolks and unis which landed just recently, so I'm still yet to pull them out of the box, but I really think that this is the solution for the D2 shaft problems. I'm convinced of it. Changing to 1310 DC joints solves the breakages but not the dry bearing failure problem. This new shaft solves the dry bearing problems also.

Don't be put off by him being in the US - his shipping is fast and his backup is 100%.

Low and behold mine went last week too - got canberra motor works to sort it - $631 for the propshaft and an hour labour

Originally Posted by froryan

Low and behold mine went last week too - got canberra motor works to sort it - $631 for the propshaft and an hour labour

They're a decent bunch of guys. Generally pretty expensive though, Im amazed it was under 1000$

Originally Posted by Cosmic Tourist

They're a decent bunch of guys. Generally pretty expensive though, Im amazed it was under 1000$

I was too - they replaced my rear diff and hubs last year and it certanly cost me an arm and both legs. But I can't fault their work or knowledge (I have been using them since we got the Disco 2 years ago) and although I wouldn't mind paying less - I suppose you do get what you pay for.