Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Splicing and joining ABS sensor wires

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    JHB, South Africa
    Posts
    117
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Splicing and joining ABS sensor wires

    Can I do this and does it matter what wires are joined of the two?

  2. #2
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Riceburner View Post
    Can I do this and does it matter what wires are joined of the two?
    No... Get extensions or it will turn bad!

  3. #3
    Hamish71 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Riceburner View Post
    Can I do this and does it matter what wires are joined of the two?
    I feel silly contradicting Tombie, but Im not sure if I am....

    I just replaced the right front wheel sensor in my D2a. To do so, I bought the replacement part with the "long lead" that bypasses the two pin plug above the wheel well, and goes direct to the SLABS. I made a perforation in the rubber gromit above where the main harness goes through the firewall behind the pedals, and passed the cable through there. Then I used an old chippy trick. I got a piece of yellow tongue (long piece of plastic that joins particle floor boards), and threaded that behind the centre console through the wiring harness....tied to that was my wheel sensor lead, pulled it through. Then using Rave, determined the pins in the C505 connector in the SLABS that where for the right front, clipped those off 5cm from the connector. Soldered new cable to those wires. Put connector back in, reset ECU using Nanocom. Problem solved. All up, probably takes 20 minutes, plus whatever time it takes you to take of wheel, calliper, and disk. (In my case, 2 ****ing hours). If you are asking which of the green wires you solder to...no, it doesnt matter.

  4. #4
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Hamish71 View Post
    I feel silly contradicting Tombie, but Im not sure if I am....

    I just replaced the right front wheel sensor in my D2a. To do so, I bought the replacement part with the "long lead" that bypasses the two pin plug above the wheel well, and goes direct to the SLABS. I made a perforation in the rubber gromit above where the main harness goes through the firewall behind the pedals, and passed the cable through there. Then I used an old chippy trick. I got a piece of yellow tongue (long piece of plastic that joins particle floor boards), and threaded that behind the centre console through the wiring harness....tied to that was my wheel sensor lead, pulled it through. Then using Rave, determined the pins in the C505 connector in the SLABS that where for the right front, clipped those off 5cm from the connector. Soldered new cable to those wires. Put connector back in, reset ECU using Nanocom. Problem solved. All up, probably takes 20 minutes, plus whatever time it takes you to take of wheel, calliper, and disk. (In my case, 2 ****ing hours). If you are asking which of the green wires you solder to...no, it doesnt matter.
    No contradiction... You did a full length replacement...

    The Original poster is talking (I believe) of cutting the existing cable, soldering in a piece and rejoining...

    This often ends in tears Seen it done a few times and all bar one attempt failed (3 amigos)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pretoria, RSA
    Posts
    536
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Riceburner View Post
    Can I do this and does it matter what wires are joined of the two?
    Hi Riceburner,
    A bloke in Cape Town has done it with no ill effects but I would not do it.
    Rather get the extended ones from Expidition exchange.
    I am planning to get some from them.
    If you're interested we could do it together.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Athens - Greece
    Posts
    200
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi - i am due to suspension convertion with long travel shocks,i've pulled and repositioned the wires as far as i could - no more slack on the sensors wires for future mods.
    Where can i find-order such an extension,i googled and couldn't find anything..
    Cheers.
    PS
    I had a Renault Kangoo 4x4 and had ripped rear left sensor wire once,dealer was asking 180 euros so i used-made-soldered a 10cm extention with plain wire - nothing special and worked like a charm,is something different-special with Disco wires(resistance or something else)?
    Last edited by fatman; 20th May 2010 at 01:57 PM. Reason: Added the Kangoo thing..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Pretoria, RSA
    Posts
    536
    Total Downloaded
    0

  8. #8
    Hamish71 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by fatman View Post
    Hi - i am due to suspension convertion with long travel shocks,i've pulled and repositioned the wires as far as i could - no more slack on the sensors wires for future mods.
    Where can i find-order such an extension,i googled and couldn't find anything..
    Cheers.
    PS
    I had a Renault Kangoo 4x4 and had ripped rear left sensor wire once,dealer was asking 180 euros so i used-made-soldered a 10cm extention with plain wire - nothing special and worked like a charm,is something different-special with Disco wires(resistance or something else)?
    The genuine part is long enough to do what you want...I reckon I had at least 2 ft spare, and I have a 2 in lift....if you have no fault in yours, and, more importantly, if you have some abs wire, then it should be able to be done. The system DOES work on resistance though, so using a different gauge wire/resistance wire may not work....and yes, the genuine part was not cheap.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    I am lost
    Posts
    1,766
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Rudolf View Post
    http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ca...cat=294&page=3
    go with the above i did it easy plug in and play cheap to and from the makers of D2 abs system wabco
    cheers kelvin

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    JHB, South Africa
    Posts
    117
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Rudolf that sounds like a plan, since I want to go to at least 70 mm lift.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!