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What were the front end castor readings after the last alignment ? When you lifted the rear end, the front castor would have reduced further. ( the front diff rotates forward as you lift the rear, reducing the castor )Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaker
I am unsure of the readings, I will find out next time I am in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by ADMIRAL
I realise that lifting the back on it's own would rotate the front axle slightly, reducing the castor angle.
Although, because of rear drawers, fridge etc. it did appear to be 'sagging' at the rear.
Do you know the correct castor angle?
Not off the top of my head, but I will try to remember to check tomorrow. ( just left myself a note )
I'd have thought all 'round is wrong.
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
From memory the label on the side of the drivers door shows 190kPa Front and 260kPa Rear.
38psi in the rear is fine, but, depending on what size tyre you have on (now this is what I do) I'm not speaking for anyone elseQuote:
Originally Posted by Shaker
I start with the factory setting (on the tyre placard) and then adjust the pressures if needed from there, for example with 245/75s I ran 30psi front and 40psi rear (46psi loaded with camper on)
With 265/75s I ran 36psi front and 40psi rear (46psi loaded with camper on)
Now I have 235/85s I have reverted back to 30psi front and 40psi rear (46psi loaded with camper on) after trying the same pressures as I had with the 265/75s, I'm going away this weekend and starting the trip with these pressures, I'll adjust them if needed.
I change the the pressure till I find the right pressures that make the car handle the best.
It's amazing how tyre pressures can makes such a difference in the way the car handles.
Baz.
After my 4" lift my Caster was -1deg
After the 3deg bushes back to +2deg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tombie2
Those SUPERPRO i have heard alot about them do you rate them as i have heard 2 different storys
thanks
Kelvin
Hi Shaker,Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaker
They vary per model, but in general the early V8s had 3 and 3/4 degrees. The later V8's and T/diesels 3 degrees.
The castor correction bushes are used to try and restore the castor back to where it was before the lift. This is not always possible, and you may have to accept some loss of castor as a trade off from lifting the vehicle.
The most obvious physical effect of reducing the castor, is lighter, floaty steering, ( you may even call it darty ) particularly at higher speeds over uneven surfaces, or in crosswinds. There will also be a reduction in the steering self centering, so the s/wheel won't come back to centre as readily.
My last wheel alignment etc. with the 2.5" lift came out at castor of 0.5 degrees.
I am looking at caster corrected radius arms to bring it back into line, but not until I go to a 4" lift.
Having said that though the car is a bit of a fight to drive through Brisbane City each day when it follows every change in the road.
I have noticed no one seems to drive right beside me on the tight sections of road for some reason.:)