Thread: REAR HUB SEAL OIL LEAKS

Hub nut is 1-1/4" or 32mm in size, I personally prefer to use the 1-1/4 as its a "better fit" on the hub nut. Either will do tho and a 6 point socket is best.

You will need a good size bar to "break" the torque of the hub nut, and a big torque wrench to do 360 LBS ft when re fitting it, a new Hub nut is recommended as well

As far as your leak goes, well there is 2 seals at the hub end of the axle, if its the "O" ring thats gone, then its simply a case of removing the hub and replacing the seal, however the hub has an "integral" seal as well, if thats gone then its new hub time + the new "O" ring as you will have it apart anyway.

By the sounds of your description, it seems it may be the hub seal itself, to be sure tho, clean it all down and have another look after a few miles of driving to be sure where its coming from as the hubs are not cheap if it isn't that.

Thanks for your advice any idea of the cost of new hubs

I've just done mine recently the "o" ring was under $10 and the hub was about $450ish by memory. Pretty easy job to do but like urban Panzer said you need a really big bar to crack nut then a big torque wrench to retighten. otherwise piece of cake

About 300 quid in sterling for an oem part.

to add to UP's advice, I simply removed hub and driveshaft as a unit and replaced the 80p o-ring on the axle.
degreased the lot and 2K miles later, all sorted. took less than 2 hours to do it and could do it in 30 mins next time.

Make sure you know the torques for all the bits. there is another similar post here which has them.

Try this first, you may get lucky and its good practise if you do need to change the hub anyway.

I wouldn't remove the ABS sensor as LR have stopped this procedure as any accidentally introduced muck will leave you needing a new hub anway.

Thanks for the advice it is very helpful and hopefully it is not the hub seal. Is there anyway to tell the difference by where the oil is? Wouldn't you have to disconnect sensor to remove hub and axle. So all I have to do is remove the calliper undo the 4 bolts and slide it out. I read your earlier answer on using the bolts to pull it back in and the torque settings.

Hi, in my case, there was a collection of gunk at the bottom of the lip on the axle where the o ring had failed so i was reasonably confident it was the culprit.

If the hub has failed itself, there may be grease and/or axle oil but I can't claim expertise on this point.

No you only need to disconnect the abs where it meets the chassis, look for the white clip, and if it was stubborn like mine, you may find yourself applying gentle pressure with a pair of grips to get it to loosen! (on opposite sides to where the two little pins clip in, will be obvious when you look at it)

Well i did the O ring seal and now I still have oil on the disc. Need the Hub.

Firstly. I didn't have much luck with the brit part calliper kits. anyone used a Brit Part Hub, are they any good?

Secondly. after removing the steak in the Nut, how do I lock up the hub and undo the nut, last time I tried I felt like I was going to break something. I have a 380mm bar from Genius and it was bending, badly

any tips?

Matt

Afer seeing a few repeat failures, genuine hubs only for me for D2 from now on. As regards the Oring, I haven't seen one fail yet, so far has always been the hub The giveaway is that the oily muck is contaminated with wheel bearing grease, which is washed out of the hub via the inner bearing seal failure. If only it didn't ruin the pads etc, as 80w90 is OK for wheel bearings

JC