Thread: loss of power td5

To correctly bleed the D2 you need to unclip the reservior and lift as high as it goes then unscrew the bleed screw.
Is the aircon radiaitor fan,the electric one) running all the time despite the AC being switched off????
You will need a Nanocom/testbook etc to clear if the ECU is still in protect mode(the fan running is the give away,reduced performance the other)
Andrew

gday all I bled the system as Landyandy said to but the issue is still there ,if I can reset the ecu (probably take to a mech for that one as I dont have an nanocom) would that rectify the temp sitting on the half way mark and obviously the reduced performance issue or is the temp another problem ? (has onyone in the Albury Wodonga area have an nanocom testbook that I could borrow hire to do the job?)
cheers Andrew

Originally Posted by landoverharry

gday all I bled the system as Landyandy said to but the issue is still there ,if I can reset the ecu (probably take to a mech for that one as I dont have an nanocom) would that rectify the temp sitting on the half way mark and obviously the reduced performance issue or is the temp another problem ?

The Temp sitting on the halfway mark after it has warmed up is normal for a TD5.

Lack of performance may be related to the turbo wastegate not working correctly?
cheers

the temp has always sat just above the 1/4 mark now it will shoot up to the halfway mark after 3 kms It is also revving higher than it has normally been, I dont know what each graduation mark is valued at but the revs sit on the last mark before no1. I will have a look at the wastgate and spray the arm with wd40 and see if that is the problem still not sure about the temp though Any advice is good advice keep em coming
Cheers Andrew

My 2004 TD5 Disco goes to a quarter while warming up and then straight to a half when thermostat opens.

It's either a faulty waste gate solenoid or a turbo hose delaminating internally.

If the idle is rough, then it could be oil-in-the-wiring-loom too.

well I took the car to a landrover mech who put their diagnostics on it and it came up with 10 fault code errors : maf sensor 1 3 5 injector faults some others that he couldnt remember and a map sensor fault ( the one on the fuel cooler ) this one he has never seen before. He said I need to replace the whole loom but Im sure I have seen on a forum (may have been this one cant remember ) that the plugs can be cleaned of oil ?is this the case or am I up for a new loom
cheers Andrew

Andrew
You only replace the injector loom,its inside the engine.EASY DIY job,about $200 to buy.
Plenty of info,search "Oil in the harness" and "Flushing oil from the harness"
All this info SHOULD be in "THE GOOD OIL" section.
GOODLUCK
Andrew