Thread: D2 turbo removal

It's pretty easy Kelvin, and yeh Rave is very vague on removal of the turbo. First remove the oil feed at the top, then remove the oil return pipe (8mm bolts), then just undo the bolts which hold it to the manifold, as well as the dump pipe. Block the inlet and outlets as well as the oil passages, just to prevent things from getting in there.

Hi - as a thought.....if you have already fitted an EGR blanking plate, you might find it easier to tap a thread here rather than drill into your manifold.
Your EGT probe will still be in the exhaust gas stream and give you the same thermal readings. I've just finished this today after receiving the EGR kit.

Just a thought to save you some lengthy plumbing etc

Originally Posted by Catmatt

Hi - as a thought.....if you have already fitted an EGR blanking plate, you might find it easier to tap a thread here rather than drill into your manifold.
Your EGT probe will still be in the exhaust gas stream and give you the same thermal readings. I've just finished this today after receiving the EGR kit.

Just a thought to save you some lengthy plumbing etc

That too was my theory.
Was advised against it,it is only the EGT of no 1,not a mix of all 5.

A STUPID thought from me.Is the swarth going to do any real harm??? There wouldnt be a lot of it,and it would be going out the exhaust not into the mojo????
A big chunk could cause issues,small fillings wich is more likely the product of the drill/tap process should blow straight into the exhaust.
Andrew

As described by Hendrick, not a hard job. Long socket extensions help with dropping the dump pipe, and getting the bolt from the heat shield can be a bastard, but not a hard job. Do yourself a favour and replace all the nuts with brass ones for next time. Ratchet spanners also help.

Use a vacuum cleaner to suck the swarf while your drilling and tapping the thread. No need to remove it at all. Just need an extra pair of hands to hold it there.

Cheers

Andrew

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

That too was my theory.
Was advised against it,it is only the EGT of no 1,not a mix of all 5.

A STUPID thought from me.Is the swarth going to do any real harm??? There wouldnt be a lot of it,and it would be going out the exhaust not into the mojo????
A big chunk could cause issues,small fillings which is more likely the product of the drill/tap process should blow straight into the exhaust.
Andrew

Hmmmm - I'm going to have to re-major in thermodynamics again if #1 can't give you an indication of your EGT . Without starting a raging debate on the optimal position of an EGT on a 5 cylinder diesel - placing it very close to a major heat-soak like for instance; a turbo housing could lead to spurious EGT readings.

Reference swarf getting inside the mojo - its unlikely although a 'big chunk' as you say could end up under a valve due to back pressure although again, unlikely. You might be taking a leap of faith relying on positive exhaust pressure to "blow' everything down stream - however if you are removing the turbo and manifold, you're on the right track

Originally Posted by Catmatt

Hmmmm - I'm going to have to re-major in thermodynamics again if #1 can't give you an indication of your EGT . Without starting a raging debate on the optimal position of an EGT on a 5 cylinder diesel - placing it very close to a major heat-soak like for instance; a turbo housing could lead to spurious EGT readings.

Reference swarf getting inside the mojo - its unlikely although a 'big chunk' as you say could end up under a valve due to back pressure although again, unlikely. You might be taking a leap of faith relying on positive exhaust pressure to "blow' everything down stream - however if you are removing the turbo and manifold, you're on the right track

The correct location is either the manifold at the turbo mount or the inlet of the turbo housing. While you study thermo dynamics, add a unit of diesel engineering to the workload

Regards to the swarf, it's not so much about it falling back into the exhaust valves, definitely not about backpressure (WTF????) however a piece entering the turbine is not good, make huffer lose it's puffer all over engine bay.....
Just a point of note when drilling, it's advisable to use a cobalt drillbit. Cast iron is not the kindest of metals to drill and needs to be clean cut, preferably with a lube. A HSS bit dry run will overheat the cut point and make it brittle making it hard to tap a clean thread also.
With the thread of most thermocouples being 1/8 NPT, it's a fine thread and must be done properly.
Have cut ubernumero cast threads in my valve days on CI valve bodies.
I used to use a magnetic wand stuck thru the hole to pickup any escapees inside. Never failed me.

Cheers

Andrew

Well if you wish to speculate how much or little swarf may remain in the manifold and may or may not strike your power turbine at upwards of 20000 rpm and the little or no damage that may be caused or the bits that may find a good spot near the wastegate and jam it up, go ahead and leave the turbo on and save yourself 45 minutes of labour. Sounds like a good trade. Same with vacuuming drill and trapping swarf through the probe hole, you wont get it all out.

cheers