1st Thread - Brake Pads & Rotors

[Ross]

G'day everyone, I've had my Disco 2, for 2 years and pretty happy so far. But needs brakes (mechanic says 85%) but the rear left rotor looks knackered.

Question: Supercheap have a range from $30 front set to $125.00 and a little higher on the rear. Rotors $101 front set and $96 rear. Didint get the brand. Obviously I wont buy the cheapest so the Bosch one's about $65 per front. How do I change the rotors, pads look pretty simple - or are they? Not a mechanic but not stupid either!

Hope someone has a link or can advise what needs to be done. In return I'll reply on how I went.

Thanks

Ross

[Andrew D]

Ross

I have used Bendix pads. Check their website.

Dead easy to do. Just make sure you use some anti-squeal paste.

Look in the workshop manual for rotors as I have never need to replace them.

I can give the extracts to the manual if you like.

Regards
Andrew

[Sully]

I'm actually in the process of replacing all four rotors and pad sets right now. It's a pretty simple job (as long as the retaining screw in the rotors isn't knackered like mine).

In order to get the rotors off, follow this process.

1. Loosen the nuts on the wheel.
2. Jack up the car, ensuring you've got adequate stands to support it in the case that the jack fails.
3. Unbolt the caliper at the rear and set it aside. A handy tip is to get a cable tie and tie the caliper temporarily to something. You don't want it to fall as it could potentially rip out the brake line.
4. Unsrew the retaining screw that holds the rotor to the hub.
5. Remove the rotor. Don't be afraid to use a little force from a block of wood and hammer, or a rubber mallet if it appears stuck.
6. Replace with the new rotor.
7. Put retaining screw back in place (why not buy new ones for all four wheels? These can be had for about $15 for all four from a LR dealer)
8. Go back to the caliper and ensure that the calipre pistons are pushed all the way back into the housing. You can leave the old pad in to do this and the job is most easily done with a set of large multi-grips.
9. Check your brake fluid level after doing each corner as you don't want it to overflow once the pistons have been compressed, which forces fluid back into the system.
10. Pop the old pads out.
11. pop the new pads in.
12. Bolt the caliper back in place.
13. Put your wheel back on.
14. Drop it back on the ground.
15. Repeat x 3 for the other wheels.

Easy mate!

Be aware that once you've completed the job, that your brakes might feel a little unresponsive until they have bed in.
You will want to drive up the street slowly, and brake, speed up a bit, brake. Speed up a bit more and brake again.
Also be aware that there will be some smoke. This is just the anti-corrotion oil burning off the rotor as it heats up.

As to what brand rotos and pads you use, that's a personal choice. However, I certainly wouldn't buy a cheap brand from Supercheap Auto.

I picked up a set of RDA rotors and fancy pads (they were going to be Bendix, but they ran out so gave me some others at the same price) for $352 all up. $55 per rotor and $66 for all of the pads.

Northern Brake and Clutch in Kensington, give them a call to see if the post? 03 9329 5255

[Rod 46]

Hi Ross

If Sully hasn’t convinced you it’s simple this link has photos
www.discovery2.co.uk / Front Disc and Pads

[BigJon]

7
8. Go back to the caliper and ensure that the caliper pistons are pushed all the way back into the housing. You can leave the old pad in to do this and the job is most easily done with a set of large multi-grips.
9. Check your brake fluid level after doing each corner as you don't want it to overflow once the pistons have been compressed, which forces fluid back into the system.

AULRO Top Tip.

Don't force old brake fluid from the calipers back into the master cylinder / ABS system. It is asking for a seal failure / port blockage.

Instead, crack the bleeder nipple open on the caliper and let the fluid out while retracting the pistons.

[Andrew D]

Jon

Is that from experience as I have not done that or experienced that. Also I only push the cylinder back far enough to slide the new pads in, not the whole way.

Not sure what's involved in the power bleed but have to find out.

Regards
Andrew

[Ross]

To Andrew, Sully, Rod46 and BigJon,

Very much appreciated as this is my first post and others have recommended this site. My father has Rangies late 70's and 80's and then Disco's so at 40 now I'm just rapt in them.

Cheers to Sully for your lenghty reply and exactly what is required. Once done next week will send some pics and what happened!

Cheers

Ross

[3-Gees]

This forum is great!,was looking at my discs recently and thinking" I wonder how hard they are to change",well I wonder no more!!Has anyone used slotted rotors in the front and are they any better?...or worse.I finally subscribed a few days ago and it's paid for itself allreadyThanks Guy"s& Gal's



Gregg

[Defender Mike]

You may find when finished you get some unwanted lights on the dash known as the 3 amigos. Brake warning ,Traction control and ABS. The first time I changed my pads and not my rotors this happened and I also had to replace 2 ABS sensors not cheap at $345 each Plus you need a nanocom to turn the lights out.
Next time I replaced rotors as well and no problemo.

Mike

[Andrew D]

The rotors alone won't set the 3 amigos off however sensors will.

It's not normal practice to replace rotors every time with pads unless you have the habit of driving your car into the ground.

The nanocom will generally tell you the correct reason for 3 amigos and this should be the first thing you do if they ever come knocking.

More times than not it's the shuttle valve switch in which case refer to Option B.

Regards
Andrew

P.S. This is for everyone.