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Thread: TD5 cooling system voltages/corrosion

  1. #1
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    TD5 cooling system voltages/corrosion

    Hi all.
    I have just given my 10 year old 300k TD5 D2 a cooling system birthday. All hoses+clamps, thermostat, oil-cooler, pump, coolant tank and cap, fuel-cooler o-rings, viscous fan bearing, drive-belt, radiator and Nulon Long Life OAT coolant. EXPENSIVE and took most of the weekend.
    This vehicle had a Dealership service record from new and as far as I know (as second owner) always ran OAT coolant. No abnormal, in fact no, signs of corrosion on old parts or head and no sign of sediment build-up, including inside the fuel-cooler. Minimal leakage either, just fuel-cooler and pump weeping. Parts replaced as they are all potential show stoppers...Even with an Enginesaver fitted.

    My question is: what are the specific checks for stray currents within the cooling system?

    I don't want failure of any of these expensive items and the possible nasty consequenses. I vaguely remember a thread on here a few years ago on this topic but searching returned no relevant threads. I am told by the LR parts supplier that checking for voltages is simple yet worthwhile means of preventing electrolytic pitting and corrosion of the coolant system.

    Thanks in advance
    Jason.

  2. #2
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    This is a really good point Jason, and the reason why you see some radiators with 'earth' straps or leads between the rad core and the body of the vehicle.
    The Td5 is not immune either, but not usually a high risk of stay current causing serious corrosion. The oil cooler can and does fail even on lowish KM engines, looking at the failed ones I have removed they could quite possibly be a victim of stray current. Difficult to prove though.

    The idea is to remove the 'circuit' that can form using the coolant as an electrolyte, adding earth leads etc will reduce a harmful buildup I would say.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the quick reply Justin.

    The engine/transmission/body earths all seem to be present and tight/clean but there is no bonding between the alloy rad core and anything else.
    My parts supplier who mainly does work on Series/County models suggested that a millivolt meter be used to look for potential (i.e. voltage) between the battery earth and rad core, the coolant in the reservoir, the block etc. with engine off and also running, and with all other circuits (e.g. lighting, two-way, aircon, Engel etc.) operating to find anything which may induce stray voltages into the system due to these items earthing through the coolant system. He basically said that a bad case could pinhole a radiator in a matter of weeks.
    What level of voltage is a problem? Are there any other places to test? Or accessory circuits to activate and check?

    Any input welcome, Jason.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Resection View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply Justin.

    The engine/transmission/body earths all seem to be present and tight/clean but there is no bonding between the alloy rad core and anything else.
    My parts supplier who mainly does work on Series/County models suggested that a millivolt meter be used to look for potential (i.e. voltage) between the battery earth and rad core, the coolant in the reservoir, the block etc. with engine off and also running, and with all other circuits (e.g. lighting, two-way, aircon, Engel etc.) operating to find anything which may induce stray voltages into the system due to these items earthing through the coolant system. He basically said that a bad case could pinhole a radiator in a matter of weeks.
    What level of voltage is a problem? Are there any other places to test? Or accessory circuits to activate and check?

    Any input welcome, Jason.
    I would certainly test the way he suggests, but I'm certain one vehicle would have differing levels of voltages to another, it is shown by the number of these vehicles that have NO issues whatsoever with electrolysis, and others that have oil cooler and rad failures at early intervals.

    I would test at rest, and with engine running, lights on or off etc etc. It would be interesting to see the tabulated results, and a control test procedure so others could try it and post their results?

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  5. #5
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    OK.
    I'm away from home during the week but due back from site on weekend. Will perform testing then and report back. May help those who have have oil-cooler dramas on here in recent times.

    Regards
    Jason.

  6. #6
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    Interesting stuff. If this is happening, where would you expect to find the symptoms. Inside the oil cooler or around the in/out nozels?

    cheers
    Nick

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