Thread: Double cardan shaft upgrade

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

Hi Rick, No I didn't I am afraid.

Justin, after reading your comment re heat, I may wrap the catalyst on that side to see if I can reduce the heat a bit.

I wonder if that may help atall.

(Or removing the cats - although that may mess something else up)

Pete, It may not be a problem now that you can actually grease this new shaft.
Do it quite often it should then be OK.

I wouldn't wrap the cat, can promote early corrosion/ perforation.

Gotta live with them I'm afraid.

JC

Just a quick update, i checked with TW re the spline engagement and they are built for a nominal 2" spline showing for compression when fitted, leaving 4.5" of spline engaged.

Originally Posted by justinc

Harry, It gets VERY hot in close proximity, Cats exceed 600Degrees at times. The overall heat from the engine bay and exhaust does BAD things to undercarriage components too.

And does bad things to exposed flesh to

The freight is a bit of a killer, though I must say that if I ever have to do mine again I'll go for a Woody

Thank you for the info.

Just a bit a warning about the front uni on the Tom Woods shaft, I had mine on my Defender fail in less than 20,000km.

Talking to LRA who supplied it, it is no uncommon for the grease nipple to stick open, and then all the grease leaks out because of the shaft spinning. I had greased it three times in, the last time just before we started the Anne Beadell, and it seemed OK, but 5000km later, coming down Cunninghams Gap, it started to vibrate and shake. Pulling over I found the cap with the grease nipple was missing all the rollers. The other three were fine. Vibration was bad on overrun, just noticeable when putting accelerating gently.

We limped home slowly for the last 100km, being careful not to overrun and being very gentle with everything. I put the old shaft back on and contacted LRA. They said I was not the first, and sent up a new uni-joint the next day. I have not put the shaft back in yet, as the slight vibration seems to have gone away, springs must have settled just enough. I checked all the others, re-greased them all including the ball with special little fitting, and they all seemed OK.

Not sure if fitting a 90 degree grease nipple will help, but I have some spare caps I will fit over all the grease nipples when I eventually fit it back. I would prefer uni's with the grease nipple in the centre, like all the other propshafts, having it just on the one cap seems wrong to me. .

Originally Posted by Iain_B

I would prefer uni's with the grease nipple in the centre, like all the other propshafts, having it just on the one cap seems wrong to me. .

Having the nipple on a cap is a stronger design than having it in the centre of the cross, as well as so much easier to grease, and the units are just a standard Spicer/Jeep uni, the same as used in a production Wrangler.

And I forgot to mention I always check the ball in the nipple when installing a new uni and make sure it's seating.

Often paint holds it open, so I just run the blade of a pocket knife around the port, and pop the ball in and out against the spring a few times to make sure it's seating.

after uni's chewed out on mine I rebuilt it and all was good until it removed itself suddenly at 80klms per hour, when chasing other options I found a place at edgeworth and went for a larger unit. during a chat with supplier (can't remember at this point but can chase) he told me that the cardinal joint spherical bearing shaft can wear and replacing uni's and spherical bearing will only last a short time. if your planning a rebuild don't forget to measure this shaft as you won't go far without this shaft being within tolerance. chris