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Thread: 2000 D2 V8 Temperature Gauge

  1. #1
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    2000 D2 V8 Temperature Gauge

    A few weeks ago I purchased a 2000 D2 V8. This weekend was the first time I was able to drive it for longer than 20 minutes.

    Anyways, about 20-30 minutes into each drive the temperature gauge would go from the middle to about 3/4 or slightly higher toward the red. It was about 38C outside and the aircon was on.

    Afterwards I checked the coolant level and the reservoir was about half full.

    I am curious if this is normal behavior once the engine gets warmed up?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Sully Guest
    That doesn't sound right, or very good at all. Mine is constantly just under half way, regardless of the outside temperature or the aircon.

    Your coolant shouldn't be half full either. I'd be topping that up as a start and then road testing it to see if that has helped.
    If it's low now, make sure you check for any leaks after the top up and check under the car for any evidence of leaks.

    Fingers crossed it just needs some coolant and hasn't got stuffed heads.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    if the gauge moves at all after reaching operating temp then something is wrong,,,

    and maybe the reason why the last guy sold it---
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    No, it is not. The temp gauge on your D2 will not show you what is really happening - they respond very slowly because they are over damped. By the time the temp gauge has gone into the red your engine has already overheated.

    My own experience with D2 V8 is that the radiators foul up after 5-7 years. If that radiator is ~10 years old then it needs attention - either changing or rodding out IMHO.

    Neglect the cooling system and you are asking for trouble - head gasket leakage but sometimes worse, slipped liners.

    Should not be losing water either, you need to understand why that is happening.
    2024 RRS on the road
    2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
    1999 D2 V8, in heaven
    1984 RRC, in hell

  5. #5
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    Ah. I was secretly hoping nobody was going to mention the heads. Will try your top up suggestion and get someone who knows to look into it.

    Thanks again!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Karratha WA
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    Mine, same MY, sits at 3 O'clock when warmed up.
    I have it in Karratha, and have had it run 10000K since I bought it. 38C...pffft, nothing, and with both airs on flat out. (I was also born in shoe box in middle of road...luxury).
    The diseasel I had a few years back, was the same...temp gauge pointing steady at 3 O'clock.
    Nat-Rad or some other radiator mob should easily, and while you wait, be able to identify HCs in the coolant, meaning head issues, also a simple pressure check to find any external leaks.
    It maybe as simple as a sticky thermostat???
    I would also recommend you invest in an "engine saver" coolant level alarm...cheap insurance.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    just had my heads removed for new gaskets,, around 1400 including labour, good gaskets, and new studs. oh take off an hour or so unless you have gas too--
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Just for the record; in case anyone else ever runs into a similar issue, it turned out that the radiator was 60% blocked! Had it cleaned out and installed a new water pump since it had been under strain. All is better now.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Cairns
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    Reducing the flow of water through a centrifugal pump actually reduces the "strain" on the pump. Reducing the flow to a pump is a technique often used to reduce the load on the pump.

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