My advice would be to toss the locking nuts too buggery, more trouble than there worth
Baz.
Shame to bust my nuts when the right tool would let me use them time and again
Sorry if the following has already been flogged to death but is there any way of figuring out the right reference for the LR tool from looking or measuring locking wheel nuts, anyone?
More specifically a photo of the culprit is attached.
Cheers.
My advice would be to toss the locking nuts too buggery, more trouble than there worth
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Yep, I agree. Get rid of the "security nuts". They are prone to stripping, making getting them off damned near impossible. Recently one of mine was so badly stripped that I had to grind it off with a Dremel.
In terms of getting it off, you can get them off with the standard wheel brace. That's how secure they are.
You can pick up new disco wheel nuts at a reasonable price from ebay.
Not sure of the question. If you are after the tool to undo the nuts in the pic, the letter stamped on the nut identifies this, in your case it is the Letter "I". They go from A to at least K.
If you have an "I" removing tool and it is split, knock it back into shape with a hammer and then put a hose clamp around the front edge as an emergency remover.
Erich.
to actually answer th queston they are referenced by letter, A through C (could be as far as E) to order the correct tool you need the part no to match the letter code. The code isn't stamped on the sec nut anywhere. You'll need to match it to a tool which is stamped. I don't know how close the patterns are but it looks like mine which is C.
I had to buy a new lock nut key from Southern Land Rover here in Perth after what can only be described as a retard over tightened all my wheel nuts after fitting my replacement alloys and tyres. The letter is actually stamped on the nut itself as pointed out by Bundalene, in your case letter "I". Cost here for the new one was $27 as at the time I needed to undo and retention each nut & lock nut and the original key peeled open (a common problem & reshaping it with a hammer did not have the strength needed).
When I get to it I will replace them with normal wheel nuts (took months to sell the old alloys and tyres so not one is going to steal them).
Cheers,
Peter.
Hard to find and use cap remover and adapter socket in dark. Got five normal nuts from British Offroad second hand, very reasonable price. They do the job and only one socket required. Save fancy nuts for when you dispose of vehicle.
Regards,
Geoff
I've fitted a short section of steam pipe over my lock nut key to stop it expanding.
Standing on the supplied wheel wrench is almost guaranteed to wreck the key.
I actually had adjustable axle stands and small blocks of wood to mount the wheel brace exactly parallel so it would not damage the new lock key. Yes, I did have to jump on the wheel brace severely to crack the threadObviously these fitters think that stands and blocks of wood are something you carry around in the glove box just so you can undo their handy work in the back of nowhere in the dark whilst its raining
Again once you get them off, throw them into that little spot in the back of the shed and only bring them out when next you sell.
Cheers,
Peter.
Yep, this and a puff or three of powdered graphite on the thread and compression face of the nut to help it stop seizing.
Otherwise toss the LR nut and if your really worried about wheels getting knocked off, look for the uneven hex head security nuts.
Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.
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