CDL switch help, please!

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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Mike
Have you tested the switch while it's out, i.e. plug the switch in while it's out and manually test it via dash lights.
If you have a vernier, measure the travel of the switch for it's on and off positions and if possible check this against actuator movement. Can do this with a multimeter just as easily.
Andrew
I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!

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Andrew
No - not yet anyway...in fact a review of RAVE and Pedro's cut 'n' pastes shows me that the 'loose' switch I was originally try to fix is the 'high/low detect switch' - so I'm now thinking I need to put the washer back on that :o

Yes - got vernier & multimeter.

I unplugged/replugged the wires on the CDL switch after a shot of electrical contact cleaner, but obviously the switch will have to come out from above as there doesn't look like room to get it out from under the car. :(
Cheers
Mike

P.S. Ron - congrats on the ton :)

So just out of interest, did the CDL light go off when you disconnected the plug? If yes then this is good as it means the wiring is not shorted to the chassis somewhere along the run. This would cause the same symptoms.

I just looked at RAVE there is no mention of adjusting the height of the switch, just that you need the "threaded spacer" a fancy name of a nut, to ensure the correct height.

It is a pain but it should only take 15 minutes to get the centre console out, but you do need to drill out the 3/16 pop rivets. The reverse is going to take a bit longer, in my case it was a two person job fighting the new Ashcroft CDL cable all the way.

So, we have one with the light stuck on and another with the light that wont come on. Thats Land Rovers for you.:wasntme:

Cheers
Ron

Just wondering, I have a 2000 D2 with internals, did they get the light switch despite not having the actuator?

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Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Just wondering, I have a 2000 D2 with internals, did they get the light switch despite not having the actuator?

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I would say yes based on my 1999 model. If you have the ability to lock the centre diff, which you do, then you would want to know about it.

You can see the switch on top of the front extension of the transfer case if you hold an inspection mirror up. It is to the rear of the CDL actuator spigot.

When my brake light fuse blew, the cdl light came on, causing the abs and tractiion lights to come on, new fuse problem fixed, the cause in mine is an intermittent short in the trailer plug

X2 but my tc and abs lights didn't come on, this only because ive done the wire snip mod.

Hi,

first thing is to set the cable up correctly,

forget about the switch for now and jack up one front wheel with the handbrake on and the mainbox in neutral, adjust the cable until you are happy with the diff locking and unlocking, rotate the wheel to check,

when locked, wind the switch down until you get continuity across the terminals, unlock and you should lose continuity etc, repeat a few times to check,

the switch is PRC2911 and will need adjusting, the nut is not a spacer,

sorry but I can't really help with the other questions,

Dave Ashcroft

Thanks for this Dave.
I'll get onto this on the weekend...funny thing is, I'm driving around with a new switch in the cubby bin waiting to be fitted and tonight the ABS/TC lights turn off! (CDL still on though!)

Took me by surprise, I've got so used to them being there! :)
Cheers
Mike

Okay, I am finally getting around to this...

Following Dave's advice I have checked "locked/un-locked" on the CDL lever and this appears to be fine.

So to adjusting the switch:

I had a look and assumed this can't be done from below??

I've got the centre console out...do I need to remove the autobox selector quadrant to gain access to the switch? The black painted panel that surrounds the A/T & Hi/Lo shifters is rivetted on, so I presume not to be removed except in extremis?

Thanks!
Mike

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Originally Posted by 2 rocks

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I've got the centre console out...do I need to remove the autobox selector quadrant to gain access to the switch? The black painted panel that surrounds the A/T & Hi/Lo shifters is rivetted on, so I presume not to be removed except in extremis?

Thanks!
Mike

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Hi Mike,

Yes you need to drill out those rivets. Have a look at the Ashcroft CDL installation instructions on their web site for an explaination on how to expose the top of the transfer case. Note, it was a two man job getting the plate lined up again when it came to putting the rivets back in...

From memory 3/16 rivets are a suitable replacement.

Cheers
Ron