Thanks Ron!
Knew I could count on you! :D
Bit of a bugger though - I'll be making sure the switch is adjusted good-and-proper before I put it back together...
Hope it's not raining this weekend then :D;):p
Cheers
Mike
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Thanks Ron!
Knew I could count on you! :D
Bit of a bugger though - I'll be making sure the switch is adjusted good-and-proper before I put it back together...
Hope it's not raining this weekend then :D;):p
Cheers
Mike
I have replaced a CDL switch from underneath, its fiddly but can be done and saves disturbing the console.
Heres the D1 switch adjustment as your using a D1 output housing, purely for interest on a D2 there is no adjustment.
Regarding replacing the rivets on the access panel; see if you can get a hold of a rivnut kit, it's a heck of a lot easier to undo 13 screws than to drill and refit 13 rivets.
If any of you guys that had these issues were in Sydney I have the tooling. Why is it everyone who has issues isn't in Sydney?
Thanks to all for their input!
Finally got time to finish the job over the weekend...but not without its issues :(
Firstly, as per Dave's post on checking continuity at the switch, I had removed the transmission tunnel plate with the CDL un-locked. Of course with the plate now loose, attempts to lock the CDL with the lever proved futile, as did trying to get it to lock manually.
In the end I re-secured the plate with self tappers, made a slight adjustment of the cable, confirmed lock and unlock, then easily removed the plate again.
On investigating the switch - the terminals fell off!! :o:o Now wonder it wasn't working particularly well :p. In with the replacement switch, about 5 minutes to adjust and hey presto...lock - light on, unlock - light off :cool:
I also did some cutting of the foam around the high-low shifter - it had been left with a front-to-back slot for high/low selection but not side-to-side to make locking/unlocking easier.
I'm leaving the self tappers in for the moment as I'm doing a couple of other jobs while the console is out - running a constant power supply to the DVD player under the passenger seat and trying find the source of the heat leak from the heater assembly that fries my leg in summer. I'll then take it for a test and see about reinstating the rivets on the plate.
My only concern is that I need to "nip up" the adjustment on the cable and bracket but my spanners just won't get in there properly!
Thanks again to all for you advice! :D:D
Cheers
Mike
I don't know if you are still around UP, but how on earth did you manage to do this? :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Urban Panzer
I'm struggling to get my camera in there to even take a photo.
The light on my dash isn't coming on when the cdl is engaged, so need to test the switch. Perhaps there is a way of testing it without pulling it out.
Drop the front propshaft, it makes access much easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by biggin
You should be able to (just) see the CDL switch if you look up between the nose of the Transfer case and the transmission.
With the propshaft out of the way you can reach over the nose of the TC without too much drama to replace the switch.
I did a CDL switch change this way last year.
Thanks Offtrack.
I pulled the prop shaft yesterday and found the CDL was not engaged as no power to rear. I engaged the CDL and all good other than no CDL warning light.
I know the CDL is definitely engaged and I know the warning light on the dash works when the black/blue wire at the SLABS ECU is shorted to earth.
So, now to pull the switch from the front output housing and check that end. I expect that is easier said than done.
FYI,
CDL switch p/n PRC2911
CDL switch locknut p/n UYF100160
Just for the record, threads for the switch and the locknut are different, even though packaging had correct part numbers.
Fortunately, the switch had the correct thread, 3/8" whitworth at a guess. Locknut is a finer thread, seems M10.
Anyway I found a nut that fitted, cut it down to correct width, installed and all good.