My new D2 and bloody Traction Control!!!

The AWABA 4wd training area is just up the feeway from you!

I joined the Range Rover club NSW (for RR and Discos only) and for your membership you get training by such qualified teachers as ex SAS tactical vehicle specialists that really know how to get the most out of disco's and RR's.

Way cheaper than a professional course and very social.

On one training day When My D2 failed to proceed up a 30 deg plus slippery gravelly slope the instructor got in and showed me how it should be done. it wasn't the vehicle that was the problem!!

The vehicle capabilities will exceed yours without a doubt.

constant throttle position and let the system find its level of traction and it will work thru it, have faith.

cheers

Hi,

Alpick,

thanks for that reply....How/where did you join?

here is lots i have to learn...happy to be taught too.

I have CDL on mine. Engaged it today and took for a spin. TC comes off when engine switches off.

Now to decide how to creat/make a in cabin control.

Chilly

RRC Home Page


Cheers

Hi,

Is there a HI/LOW range and CDL selector available on disco 2's or 2a's? If so what sort of price should I expect to pay?

Chilly

ashcrofts in the uk one of the best at about $450-500 landed.
although i did see one one here recently for about $700, just cannot find it at the moment.
:)

found it http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...year-sale.html

It could be one wheel sensor is not working and it did not know it had a wheel spinning. Some times you just need to stop. turn it off and restart it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chilly

Hi,

Alpick,

thanks for that reply....How/where did you join?

here is lots i have to learn...happy to be taught too.

I have CDL on mine. Engaged it today and took for a spin. TC comes off when engine switches off.

Now to decide how to creat/make a in cabin control.

Chilly

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There is a wire you need to cut to stop the ecu from turing the tc off when the cdl is locked,

Here is a copy of a "how to" from disco thrasher

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disco_thrasher

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery

Cheers Kelvin

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I am new to the Disco series 2 also and have not put many kms onto it yet. I bought a CDL lever kit from www.discoverytd5.com/diff-lock/4546796217

I'd be lying if I said it was easy to fit...but then again I'm still only a little way up my very steep learning curve when it comes to spanners, sockets and skinned knuckles. Actually I'm quite capable on the skinned knuckles now.

The CDL lever install is all via the transmission tunnel and it is not a comfortable place to work as you're always leaning down and across yourself I found. But this kit has everything you need right down to a new sticker to replace the old one in front of the lever. Allow yourself plenty of time and don't start it if you need to use the vehicle within the next 5 hours as stuff will break, etc and you'll be stressing if you have extra time pressures.

On another note, and it might not apply as much with a vehicle with TC, but I've often found when trying to negotiate slippery terrain (there's always exceptions though) that it's best to back off a bit to find the point at which you're getting traction rather than flooring the accelerator in the hope of making forward progress.

I see this quite a bit on Fraser Island where I work: usually it's people with tyre pressures too high digging themselves into the sand but the ones that think they can magically unbog themselves with 4000 rpm on the tacho in 1st high are always around too...and no, they're not always backpackers.

Don't cut that wire if you are doing lots of driving in the soft stuff.

In sand the tc has habit of letting the car dig itself in by stopping alternating wheels from spinning and you lose drive.

Locking the ctr diff and turning the engine off then on again and you get cdl full drive to all wheels all the time.(I.e. No tc).

If you want your tc back, turn eng off , disconnent cdl and restart and tc should be back on, and if you want cdl as well re engage.

Works great.

Don't cut that wire!

Cheers

Al.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chilly

Hi,

Is there a HI/LOW range and CDL selector available on disco 2's or 2a's? If so what sort of price should I expect to pay?

Chilly

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MR Automotive , Redcliffe sell a cdl kit, about $500, comes with instructions, google MR if you want more info. Bob