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Thread: ABS Sensor replacement?

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoNZ View Post
    You mean having the fault read again clears the lights or is there another fault?
    Having fixed the fault, you then have to clear the fault or the lights will stay on.

    No way is it worth $1000 for lr to fix this problem. You would be much better off buying a nanocom or similar, and using the knowledge on this site to fix it yourself.
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  2. #42
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    Hi again we are still having Amigos issues on Dad's Disco 2. I have had some useful advice in this thread so far (first post here dating back to December last year). I will detail the sequence of events.
    -We had the 3 amigos warning lights and took the vehicle to Land Rover. They diagnosed that the right rear ABS sensor required replacement.
    -We sourced a genuine part sensor through a Land Rover parts importer, (considerably cheaper than going through Land Rover) (long cable type sensor)
    -We fitted this sensor, chopping and soldering the correct wires for the right rear sensor, just before the ECU.
    -Ran the vehicle and found that the lights were still illuminated. Then, found online that the faults required a reset using the appropriate computer. We purchased a Bearmach Hawkeye.
    -With the Hawkeye plugged in, we accessed the 'Read DTC' menu in the ABS section. This showed:
    Fault: 4067 CURRENT Sensor Right hand rear (sensor DC failure, broken wire, sensor impedance too high/low)
    Historical: 4067 Sensor Right hand rear (sensor DC failure, broken wire, sensor impedance too high/low)
    -We then selected 'Clear DTC', following the steps it provides, when it powers back up to recheck the faults it says 'clearing failed'(or something similar)
    -On further searching online and after spinning the hub in the axle shaft we decided that the right rear full hub needed replacing (it seemed to have a noisy bearing).
    -The same fault codes appeared after replacing the hub.
    -If we check the current readings section of the Hawkeye, it provides voltages and readings for the other 3 wheels but the right rear always displays 0.0V.
    -In terms of manual testing, we have now removed the wires for the right rear hub from the ABS connector and hooked a volt meter directly to them. (from what I've read online, there should be a voltage reading at these sensor wires when the wheel is spun around. No voltage displays. In the resistance setting, the it shows about 1035 ohms.
    -I have also tried 2 other wheel sensors in the new hub, being the original that we removed and the other new one that came with the new hub (both plug type) (neither showed any change in the volt meter with it attached to the plugs.

    To summarise, we still have the 3 Amigos lights on the dash.

    If anyone has any suggestions it would be appreciated.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoNZ View Post
    ..................
    -In terms of manual testing, we have now removed the wires for the right rear hub from the ABS connector and hooked a volt meter directly to them. (from what I've read online, there should be a voltage reading at these sensor wires when the wheel is spun around. No voltage displays. In the resistance setting, the it shows about 1035 ohms.
    ..................
    If I am understanding this correctly, you have disconnected the sensor and then expect to see a voltage across the sensor when you spin the wheel.
    This will not happen. No voltage is what you should get. The resistance sounds about right.

    Put the voltmeter on the ECU end of the disconnected sensor and ground. You should then read about 5v (from memory), if all is well, on one of the cores. If no voltage there, I think you may have an open circuit somewhere between the connector and the ECU.

    I hope this makes sense.
    Last edited by biggin; 25th April 2012 at 07:15 PM. Reason: spelling
    2002 D2 4.6L V8 Auto SLS+2" ACE CDL Truetrac(F) Nanocom(V8 only)

  4. #44
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    As I've got a lot out of this thread and many others for my own repairs I thought I should quit prowling and comment. I've similar issues on my wife's new D2 (persistent three amigos) and after reading a lot on Aulro and a bunch of other forums have plundered the money saved on the cheaper than expected purchase price of the D2 for the nanocom. I'll add comments to this thread when it arrives and I've got tales (of woe or of joy) to tell. I'm confident in the nanocom, less confident in the D2's brakes. As an aside, on the D1 V8i daily driver I've just looked into its ABS light issue using the 'paper clip method' (it's a 1997 D1, so I wired a momentary switch across slots 5 and 15 on the OBD2 for accuracy during the process), and kept getting code 4 - 12 front right wheel sensor/wire fault. All new rotors and copper-backed pads (I even put anti-squeal stuff on the back of all pads as I've heard that can help) and overhauled front calipers means it brakes well and quietly and I had suspected an electrical fault. Last night I tested resistance on the plug pins and got infinite resistance (open circuit) suggesting either an opening in the sensor's coil winding (which would be pretty rare?) or a dodgy wire. It was too dark to pull the wheel etc off to get to the sensor, but when I do I'll add it to my next post. Just adding grist for the collective mill.

  5. #45
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    Was just trolling through a suppliers site and found this,



    FTC1374X

    ABS Sensor Bush

    Any ideas? Does it fit into the hole for the sensor in the hub. It's not listed in my parts book or mcat.

  6. #46
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    Older D1 & RRC sensor bush, not used on D2's as they are a lot thinner and use a screw to retain them to the hub.


    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  7. #47
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    That'll explain it. Was listed as a D2 part. Hence confusion.

  8. #48
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    Wish the RRC sensors could be adapted, I've still got the original units in my Classic, 19 years old and still going strong.


    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  9. #49
    It'sNotWorthComplaining! Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    Was just trolling through a suppliers site and found this,



    FTC1374X

    ABS Sensor Bush

    Any ideas? Does it fit into the hole for the sensor in the hub. It's not listed in my parts book or mcat.
    If you remove the x at the end and then put that part number into Microcat it shows many vehicles use it.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    you can physically check each sensor--
    jack that wheel just off the ground,
    start car select 1st/drive(no it wont drive off, its a 4wd after all)
    if the speedo moves, that sensor is working,,

    easy huh,,,
    wouldn't traction control transfer drive to the opposite wheel & still drive it off?

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