Thread: 3 Amigos - Symptoms and Remedy

I too have been very appreciative of "the good oil" - well done pedro & everyone. WRT this post... and a good summary is always appreciated as well... this one was bingo for me:

Originally Posted by bsperka

Indicator/s
Brake squeal, immediately followed by 3 amigos

Fault isolation
Check discs for wear and glaze
Replace brake pad/s and discs?

Possible Solutions
Replace brake pad/s and discs?

Disk/pad replacement followed by fault clearance and all is good. Took the beast for a spin through Nelligen/Mogo/Deua last weekend - around 3-400km off road. Having TC & HD working as it should in the Deua was particularly appreciated

Cheers,

Pete

In the D2a, the handbrake is a master warning and will come on regardless.
If there's no HDC light but TC, ABS and HB Warning, it will be a temporary fault log that should clear automatically when you restart the engine. ABS will stay on and turn off at 5kmh+.

With all 4 switched on, its Nanocom time. I coined it "Three Amigos and the Dirty Sanchez".

I haven't heard of the HB light in the D2 though...

This has only happed three times to me.

The 3 Amigos came on when I turned the vehicle right on a roundabout, when I pulled the vehicle over and switched off the problem went away.

Two days later (and another right hand turn) the 3 Amigos came on once again. Took the car to Land Rover specialist and he reset, and no fault code was detected.

Next day (and you guessed it...another right hand turn) the 3 Amigos returned. This time a system scan came up with a code for a defective Front Left ABS brake sensor. Replaced the sensor ($400) and problem has gone and all good again.

Right, now I am going to go back on what I have said before regarding option A, I did mentioned my reluctance to perform these repairs as insurance could be a problem, BUT having seen the fact that the repair only targets the wiring section, and NOT the operational valves and valve block, then I am rethinking my stance.

I did one today as a 'test' unit and was very easy and the expected result after seeing both broken soldered joints confirmed the cause of continuing faults.

Just sayin'...


JC

I'm about to undertake option B and was wondering what the insurance situation would be. I've done some more reading on it and come to the conclusion that it's better to fix and have no intermittent problems than keep driving around with it happening at random.

Originally Posted by justinc

Right, now I am going to go back on what I have said before regarding option B, I did mentioned my reluctance to perform these repairs as insurance could be a problem, BUT having seen the fact that the repair only targets the wiring section, and NOT the operational valves and valve block, then I am rethinking my stance.

I did one today as a 'test' unit and was very easy and the expected result after seeing both broken soldered joints confirmed the cause of continuing faults.

Just sayin'...


JC

JustinC - just checking here - the wiring gives the signals to the SLABS to tell the operational valves what to do, so it is as much a critical part of the ABS as the valves and block. So, you will still have brakes, but no ABS if the pcb is faulty and the shuttle valve signals to the SLABS are not received; similarly you will have brakes but no ABS if the modification is made and for some reason the modification goes faulty. However, there is degradation of the braking system function, as the driver can cause the vehicle to skid as the ABS is not there (In ABS fitted cars, the basic approach is to try and push the brake pedal into the floor in an emergency and don't lift it until you have stopped). I assume that it is only if the insurance company can somehow link the accident to a faulty ABS wiring modification that they would have grounds to flick the claim. There are enough posts world wide to indicate that it is common practice to modify the wiring to fix an inherent design flaw in the ABS modulator design, even if it isn't LR endorsed.

The option b modification, if done correctly with good connectors etc should appear to be factory fitted and appears to be a better approach than replacing the whole unit, as the pcb with the connectors inside the abs modulator seems like it is always going to be a failure point, unless the unit or pcb design has been modified by the OEM to stop the failure from occuring.

yeah, my feeling is it is "repairing" faulty wiring, so can;t see how it would be an insurance issue.

and infact, i can imagine if insurance checked a vehicle after an accident and found the abs warning lights on and ignored, then perhaps they may have an out ?