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Thread: CHECK YOUR OIL BOLT !!!!

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davetd5
    Over tightened? That sucks! Shows the other side of preventative maintenance, eh? Sometimes it causes more problems if not done right! My old supervisor at the (car) dealership used to avoid making calls on pulling noisy diffs apart to fix gear noises for the reason that pulling things apart can cause more problems (oil leaks, more noises!) once you add the human element.
    I still think its necessary to do prevenative maintenance when you own a D2 with your own money though!
    Haha that's spot on, once human hands touch it, it either gets worse or improves...

    Though it seems land rovers like to be fine tuned

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  2. #32
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    That's the first I've heard of where the bolt actually broke off.., that's bad luck.
    Had the bolt loosen off (no loctite on it)on our 99 TD5. $600 tow and $1200 repairs. Ended up replacing the big ends and a 2nd hand oil pump. All good 40000km onwith no signs of turbo or alternator problems,, but I actually saw the light come on and shut it down within 200metres (on main road).

    Checked our 03 TD5 and no loctite either, if you haven't checked or had yours checked by now you are kidding yourself.

    BIG O
    03 D2 TD5 AUTO
    99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
    94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

  3. #33
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    Finally after 7hrs of being under the D2 changing the big ends, taken out the broken oil pump bolt replaced all gaskets, fresh oil the D2 is purring once again...

    All up cost $340

    The big ends didn't show any sighs of oil starvation though the difference with new shells and old shells were 0.204mm I have done 260,000km so it would probably be half way through it's life...

    I am currently running wurth engine oil additive, amazing stuff engine starts like it's warm, and there is signs of increased power and a decrease in fuel consumption

    Also they say the engine can run for "awhile" when the sudden loss of engine oil... Maybe this helped me...

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

  4. #34
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    Will be doing this in the next few weeks (I know that sooner is better but not before a big trip) and am wondering about :-

    Removing the bolt
    Check for clearance behind the gear
    Remove the gear
    Drill the gear
    Drill the head of the new bolt
    Re-assemble with new bolt
    Toruque bolt as recommended
    Wire lock bolt as well

    Drilling the bolt head and the gear will take a little bit of effort to get in the right place but shouldn't be too hard

    any thoughts?

    They way I see it, this only was supposedly happening to early engines but we have heard of them happening to all ages of TD5 so maybe the loctite looses its grip (I know there are different types and the bolt comes pre prepared but...)

    By wire locking as well, its a belt and braces

    Thanks

    Hay Ewe

  5. #35
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    May 2010
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    Finally checked mine on the weekend 2002 model with 200,000, the bolt wasn't lose but I didn't notice any locktite either. At least I know now that its be checked and done, The zip tie trick is great. I was expecting dramas on the reinstall, but had none. It just fitted perfectly, and this was with a britpart gasket.

    Also took the opportunity to clean out the oil strainer pickup as well.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by peterg View Post
    Apparently this fault was (mainly?) restricted to a certain range of VIN / engine numbers.... I looked it up once: there was a technical bulletin (which I can't find anymore)

    Question is, does anyone have real experience of this actually happening in a vehicle outside of the dodgy range?

    Mine's a 2003 D2a TD5 auto with 178000km
    Would it not have happened already?
    Should I really be worried?
    Is it worth the aggravation of dropping the sump, just for the peace of mind?

    I know the precautionary principle applies - I should check it out to be sure - but its not a trivial matter, and I don't want to waste time, money and knuckle skin unless the experts on here advise that its necessary - hence the question

    cheers
    Pete
    I think it's been rectified in d2a's but i'm not 100% sure. Might be worth checking it just for peace of mind.

    Edit: after a short search on google i found out it can affect even late model d2's

  7. #37
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    When I checked mine it was only just tighter than finger tight and no sign of loctite
    Glad I had reason to have the sump off and check it.
    DONT wait to find out the hard way!
    03 Disco 2a, TD5, Olso blue, 7 seater, Auto, Chipped, EGR'd, 2"lift, SLS, Dual Batteries, Provent, TM-2 engine saver

  8. #38
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    Jul 2011
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    well this bolt is now high priority on my to-do list

  9. #39
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    I was going to do it today, but i didn't realise front cross member is impossible to get off. After 4 hours of soaking bolts with wd40 I only managed to get 5 out, im starting to strip heads off the other 3 bolts...

    Note to anyone that's planning to do it, soak the front crossmember bolts 24 hours before and be prepared that taking the crossmember off may take longer than the rest of the job

  10. #40
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    oil pump bolt

    Quote Originally Posted by XHPBT1 View Post
    Finally after 7hrs of being under the D2 changing the big ends, taken out the broken oil pump bolt replaced all gaskets, fresh oil the D2 is purring once again...

    All up cost $340

    The big ends didn't show any sighs of oil starvation though the difference with new shells and old shells were 0.204mm I have done 260,000km so it would probably be half way through it's life...

    I am currently running wurth engine oil additive, amazing stuff engine starts like it's warm, and there is signs of increased power and a decrease in fuel consumption

    Also they say the engine can run for "awhile" when the sudden loss of engine oil... Maybe this helped me...

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
    That`s a bit of a worry with the bolt failing,if you look at the fracture surface is it crystalline in apearance or fairly smooth with radiating lines?
    the first suggests brittle failure possibly due to over- tightening or poor heat treatment.
    the second suggests fatigue failure .

    Trev.

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