Thread: 3 Amigos are laughing at me!

will need to reset the ECU with a nanocom or the likes,
also the ABS lights wont go off until you are doing about 5klm/h after you have reset it all

recently helped a member do option B and when it came to connecting the new earth wire from the shuttle valves we could not remember which end went where.i.e which wire from the shuttle vale went to earth and which went to the wiring loom.

first attempt resulted in all amigoes coming on so we reversed the connections and all was good. Maybe thats your prob.

If you have disconnected the modulator from the brakelines you will need to power bleed the modulator. This is done with a nanocom or the like and you do it with all lines attached and closed, no physical bleeding required. You press hard on your pedal 9as hard as you can) activate the power bleed function and the modulator is cycled by the nanocom and any air in the modulator is expelled to the lines.

You then need to bleed the lines to ensure no air bubbles. Bubbles from the modulator are a bit like Coffee Crema.


After all that is done you should have no lights on, clear of errors and just need to check the ops of the TC HDC and ABS some where safe.

PS Some here have used direct wiring from batt to modulator circuit to pulse the modulator and bleed it, others do not reccomend this method as it has the potential to damage the modulator. Search the forum re power bleed or see here

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...wer-bleed.html or

from Love my Rangie

"The modulator bleed is exactly that, a modulator bleed. In order for the modulator to correctly sense and activate the calipers it needs to be clear.
Full pedal pressure opens the master cylinder circuit to the modulator supplying the pump with full available volume to purge any air.
Generally you need resistance on the outlet to limit the discharge so air pockets against the pressurised fluid and discharges thru to the lines without any surges.
Modulator solenoids and check valves will direct any air into the brake lines and hold it back. From here you can then bleed each wheel in turn.
The bleed tests are referring to bleeding a modulator that has been removed or replaced rather than a general bleed. If your just doing a quick bleed, keep nipples closed but you MUST put full pedal pressure on the pedal and hold it while it's running.
If, and I don't recommend it, you pull the relay and manually jump the pump, there is a timed process that it operates in. Just sticking in the wire and giving it 10 seconds will put you in the running for a new pump and an empty wallet. Pulsing it with the wire can also arc out the pump.

I don't mind lending a hand if anyone needs a Nanocom, however I reserve the right should people not take heed. Working with Wabco Truck systems everyday, I see a lot of workshops without the necessary equipment trying all sorts of shortcuts that end up in component failures putting someone's livelihood off the road for a few days. With most of my customers, that can be $20,000 on average per day lost. "



cheers
Al

1. Do you need a scanner to remove the codes and hence the amigos? Yes, ABS AMIGO's are great for this job, they scan, and reset all at once.

2. Do you need to bleed the brakes and hence remove the air before they leave? Yes, and you will need a scanner now if you got air into the Modulator, should have stuck to taking out the three little bolts holding the shuttle valve switches on.

3. What have I not done? Well.

BIG O
03 D2 TD5 AUTO
99 D2 TD5 AUTO ACE
94 D1 TDI 3 DOOR (GONE)

Oh joy. So to recap......a ABS amigo will clear the codes but will not aid in the bleeding of the brakes or the modulator.

I need a nanocom or similar to do a powder bleed of the modulator, but will still need do bleed the brake lines.....sounds about right?

Any idea who in Sydeny might sell a nanocom device for a V8?

Had planned on doing the front disk and pads next week so might as well keep it on the stands.....live and learn is my motto.

I agree with Al regarding the wiring, sounds as though the earth is not established. If there is no earth all three lights are on.

Option B for me was just that. I did option B without removing the modulator from the car or snapping bolts and nothing more. Didn't need to clear the faults etc, just get in the car and drive. No more 3 amigos.

Regards
Andrew

(the initial code was the SVS)

Silly question, you DID establish that the fault was the one this fix is designed for didn't you? Without a Nanocom or similar I don't think you can.

Originally Posted by wardy1

Silly question, you DID establish that the fault was the one this fix is designed for didn't you? Without a Nanocom or similar I don't think you can.

I didn't! Mine never saw a Nanocom or code reader before doing the "option B" fix.
All I know is they came on all the time. Did the "fix" by disconnecting the lines to remove the modulator, power bleed with a Nanocam (thanks LoveMyRangie and BST4X4XFA) and they were gone. Never saw what code it was flagging up beforehand.

I reckon the fix is a good thing to do FIRST before anything else due to the seriously cheap cost. Though I reckon a lot here would disagree.
Then if they stay on or come back relatively soon, THEN drop a Nanocom on it and see what it says.....you've lost bugger all by doing "option B" first.

Fixed mine so far - "touchwood"!

No I did not diagnose the problem past the obvious....like I said... live and learn....I spent a fair amount of money rebuilding the motor and decided that from now on I would attempt all repairs myself...tomorrow I'm getting a hawkeye together with the disk and pads and will do a power and line bleed along with the brakes.....if the error is still there I'll be able to see why and it will probably be the seals so I'll get a seal replacement kit from the States....and replace those.....I will have the last laugh!