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The Supecharge MRV48 is 5AHr bigger than the D34 ... but what technology is the battery ?? Sealed lead acid, sealed lead calcium, AGM ... the Supercharge web site is a bit vague ... ?? (maybe a lead calcium battery I think ?)
Do they recharge as fast as the Optima D34 ??
Anyone know if the MRV50 would fit (height might be an issue) ... I've got a Century 46T there now which is 210mm high.
I had the front apart today and the battery box out. Does anyone have a spare D2 (V8 or diesel should be the same) I can borrow to use as a template for a twin box for 2 x D34's and I can still keep the standard jack in there under the lids as well.
They appear to be a maintenance free calcium battery. Supercharge make a big deal about using expanded calcium grid technology.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluids
http://www.supercharge.com.au/technology.php
I have a Supercharge AmpTech D48 which is a 60Ah and fits the ARB battery tray perfectly. The battery is liquid lead acid which is a pain because they leak acid. However, I found that the AGM batteries just don't take the heat under the bonnet. The 60Ah is only just adequate for me as I only run lights and fridge and don't stay camped in one spot for days, not using the car. The MRV48 sounds like it's liquid, too, but sealed (maintenance free). However, I worry about getting overheated.
Does anyone have experience with a non liquid battery that will fit the ARB tray, which is at least 55Ah and which will handle the heat under the bonnet? The previous battery I used was a REMCO 80Ah which fitted ok but I had to make a traditional battery clamping method to hold in as it doesn't come with the flanges near the base. The advantage of the ARB clamp is that it works as a heat shield, too.
Mundy
The main issue with deep cycle batteries in a "vanilla" dual battery installation is the alternator does not recharge them in the right manner, with the correct voltages. The alternator "sees" the starter battery and the deep cycle as one battery. This results, in most cases, to the deep cycle battery only ever charged to approx. 75% of it's capacity, not only reducing it's run time but also it's life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mundy
What you need is a 12 Volt battery charger. That is to say a battery charger that runs on a 12V system and supplies charging current & voltage independant of the vehicles charging system.
This fixed my battery longevity issues and increased battery run time by 35%.
I also now run second hand AGM batteries like the ones the fire brigades change out every two years regardless of condition. I am still on my first one that I have had for five years now and it only cost $40 on Fleabay for 120AH capacity!!
The charger I am running a CTEK 250S (because it has a battery temp sensor) but I have heard good reports of the Projecta DC20.
Just my 2c worth.
I have run many lead acid batteries in this postion and 2 years is the best I could get out of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mundy
I then decided to try a Exide Orbital and gave it an additional shield to protect it from the heat - bad move - it stopped ventilation and the battery died within 18 months.
So, I have decided that I will move the new AGM battery into the rear of the vehicle and hope to get 5+ years of service. Also, now I can use a bigger capacity battery - only things I don't like is having to do some cutting and putting additional weight behind the rear axle.
I had a panasonic 100AH VRLA ( Valve Regulated Lead Acid) battery in the rear of the Disco for over 7 years. I have just replaced it (with the same) as its capacity was probably down to about 50%. An AGM battery will last better but as Franz said heat is an issue, as it is with all batteries. Keepng them correctly charged is important and the use of a special 12V charger is a good thing as mentioned here.
Mine is held down via a ratchet strap to two of the load rings in the cargo area undernath my home made false floor so stays nice and cool.
I have changed the load space outlet to run from this battery as it powers a dedicated hockey puck GPS under the alpine window that I use for my Ham Radio positioning system (APRS for those in the know) 24/7.
Regards Gordo
When we got the D2 Td5 2001 Auto back in Feb I did a service and could not get the oil filter off because of the second battery box. So after some blood letting mostly mine and not a little abusive language the second battery and box was removed and tossed down the shed for a time in the future when patience may return. How do you remove the oil filter with the 2nd battery box in place? Can anyone post a picture. Or is it a lack of effort on my part maybe I should ask 'She who must be obeyed' she seems to know everything - maybe not.
A bit messy but just bash a screw driver or the like through the filter and use that to rotate the filter off.
I do it every time, saves heaps of pain.
cheers
This:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Oil-Filte...item2c5f61de22
is the whizmo for getting difficult filters off. Can be driven by a ratchet, socket, a ring or flat spanner.