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Thread: TD5 exhaust stud.

  1. #1
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    TD5 exhaust stud.

    Hi all. Just found a broken stud in the exhaust manifold. The one at the front, Well never had to turn the spanners on the old girl yet but will now. Any secrets to removing the turbo. I will need to move the A/C pump to if I have to drill.

    Cheers

    Richard.

  2. #2
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    I haven't actually tackled the job myself but have 'been there'
    Had it happen twice on the previous D2, second time the studs were all replaced (after the manifold was machined) with Stainless Studs. My new(er)D2a had already been done by the same mechanic with the SS units. He swears that since he started doing this, he's never had to do a repeat performance. My current vehicle was done 60k ago and so far so good.
    Onlt reason I posted this was to tell you about the SS studs.
    D4 SDV6, a blank canvas

  3. #3
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    There are a stack of threads on this, including a couple of "how to's"

    Just search for warped manifold, and you will find what you are after.

    Its not a hard job, but you will have to move ac compressor which means loosening the serpentine belt.

    The other tip is to drill out the outer holes (4 from memory) to the next size up. Leave the ones in the middle as locating holes. This give the manifold room to move without warping.

    Oh, and dont forget to remove the webbing.

    When I did mine, I stayed with the same size studs as original, so that IF I do have to do it again, I have the option of going bigger. But, 6 months on, so far, so good.

  4. #4
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    I done the same stud on my 99 defa and was able to do it by unbolting the A/C and swinging it back on the pipes without removing it altogether. Wish I had known about the stainles studs though.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Basil135 View Post
    There are a stack of threads on this, including a couple of "how to's"

    Just search for warped manifold, and you will find what you are after.

    Its not a hard job, but you will have to move ac compressor which means loosening the serpentine belt.

    The other tip is to drill out the outer holes (4 from memory) to the next size up. Leave the ones in the middle as locating holes. This give the manifold room to move without warping.

    Oh, and dont forget to remove the webbing.

    When I did mine, I stayed with the same size studs as original, so that IF I do have to do it again, I have the option of going bigger. But, 6 months on, so far, so good.
    I drilled mine out also but still found that,in two cases, the studs were still hard up against the manifold holes. So I filed those two out to give a little clearance and allow movement. Stuck with original size studs and no problem since.
    Roger


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    bear with me here,,,
    just asking OK?

    but IF you do that,, (allow movement) doesnt that mean that "its" loose?

    seems to me (uneducated but interested in this type of stuff V8 owner) that it would blow gaskets?
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  7. #7
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    This seems to be a common problem, but can anyone tell me : Is this more likely to happen with a chipped and upgraded TD5, or will a stock standard engine suffer as well ? Also, is it more common when towing? Reason I ask, haven't had it happen yet, but would do the mod. if it was necessary. I take it high EGT's are the cause? Bob
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  8. #8
    slug_burner is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    It is expansion due to heat that causes it so yes chipped Td5 are more likely if you drive them with high egt. Td5s that tow are also likely due to the high throttle input resulting in high egt. But it has happened to both chipped and unchipped.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the advice fellas. will tackle it in a week or 2.

    Cheers

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    bear with me here,,,
    just asking OK?

    but IF you do that,, (allow movement) doesnt that mean that "its" loose?

    seems to me (uneducated but interested in this type of stuff V8 owner) that it would blow gaskets?
    I was of the same thinking as you, Pedro. However, by leaving the middle holes at the original size, and only slightly enlarging the outer holes, it gives room for thermal expansion.

    If we think about it, the manifold is going to run at a couple of hundred degrees, thus it is going to expand with that heat. As such, it also has to contract when it cools down. By giving it a little bit of movement to do so sideways, it should, in theory, mean that the studs are less likely to be popped off.

    Now, as for the manifold being "loose" the thermal expansion is going to happen in all directions, so again in theory, the manifold will actually become tighter against the gasket the hotter it gets.




    Well, that is my reasoning behind it... Feel free to add your own thoughts.

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