Failed hill climb recovery in an Auto

mike 90 RR · 6th November 2011, 10:09 AM

Originally Posted by simonl8353

O
Remember, the key to it all is left foot braking, and it takes a couple of goes to get comfortable with it.

Exactly .....

Originally Posted by Linds

very interesting this 'driving through the brakes' - not something I knew about.

Learn to use 2 feet for Autos .... NEVER drive with 1 foot control ... Even on the black top.
With 2 feet control you can add torque (revs) to step up ledges ... if you hold the brakes and build up revs, this will load the whole drivetrain and give you a "sling shot" effect up hills ....

Also .... motors with autos CAN stall .... So controlling with 2 feet helps eliminates this. (more recovery control)

Autos will out perform manuals any day of the week .... The only plus for a manual is towing and jump starts

On the subject of ABS / TC and going backwards down a hill, Can be very dangerous .... Have personally experienced it happen to me, where I wanted to fully lockup the wheels and bury them into the ground to stop, but the ABS / TC kept kicking my pedal and releasing the brakes .... I do not like these controls for that reason. I believe you can pull the ABS/TC fuse tho.

Cheers
Mike

**camel_landy** · 7th November 2011, 08:30 AM

Originally Posted by simonl8353

Before ascending any tricky climb keep you left foot over the brake pedal and be ready. Don't cross your hands over while steering, that way you know which way your wheels are pointing.

1. when you lose traction and begins slipping backwards , plant your left foot progressively on the brake. (the car wont stall, its an auto).
2. Handbrake on, keep footbrake on (with left foot)
3. Select reverse
4. Check Behind
5. release handbrake
6. slowly release footbrake until wheels creek and car is on the verge of rolling back
7. apply accelerator just enough to "drive through the brakes"
8. maintain just enough left foot brake pressure
9. drive backwards down the hill.

Remember, the key to it all is left foot braking, and it takes a couple of goes to get comfortable with it.

If you're holding the car on the foot brake, why are you bothering with the handbrake??? It's doing bugger all and it's just one more thing to fanny around with??!!??

Just miss out Step 2 & 5... You'll find it a whole lot easier.

BTW - This technique won't work with HDC and you should only use it to get the torque converter locked up before the descent. Once on the descent, you should be releasing the brake & come off the throttle. (...and be prepared for the V8 to not have as much engine braking as a diesel!

)

M

**camel_landy** · 7th November 2011, 08:33 AM

Originally Posted by mike 90 RR

NEVER drive with 1 foot control ... Even on the black top.

M

**wardy1** · 7th November 2011, 01:05 PM

Forgot to mention the fact that the LEFT foot should be used on the brake. I've never had a problem with Park but will keep it in mind.
The recommendation in the original article regarding 'Driving through the brakes' did suggest that when about to descend a very steep/slippery slope, you should stop at the top (just before the start of the descent) and do all of the above, left foot brake, build the revs a little etc then move forward.
This all takes practice but it does work when you get it right.
If you happen to be towing a trailer, this method will also activate the electric brakes on the trailer giving you one less thing to worry about as well.

**OffTrack** · 7th November 2011, 01:52 PM

Originally Posted by camel_landy

BTW - This technique won't work with HDC and you should only use it to get the torque converter locked up before the descent.
M

Unfortunately "lock up" seems to be used to talk about two different aspects of Auto behaviour. It certainly has had me confused, and I suspect I'm not alone.

The first sense is, as in camel_landy's post, where the torque convertor impeller and turbine rotate that roughly the same speed and converter reaches coupling point. When this happens the torque convertor behaves as a fluid coupling (rather than a torque multiplier) which allows engine braking to be used.

The second sense is the torque converter lock up clutch which most obviously activates at around 80km/h in high range. This is the most commonly used sense of "torque converter lock up" in forum discussions. In low range the torque converter lock up clutch activates above 1800rpm with 0% throttle input to give increased engine braking.

cheers
Paul

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