Thread: Electric brake Controller Qs

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

velcroed to the top of the dash, rightside of the instruments.

X2


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Originally Posted by peter5111

G'day,



2) Find a decent power feeder. The unit has a 40A fuse from memory, so your power source needs to be capable of at least that much or you may find yourself with no electric assist when you really need it.


Pete

All,
I recently bought a boat and had to rush out to buy a tow car. Ended up with a 02 V8 D2.

The electric brake system fitted ( Hymes ryes ) works really well at anything under 20kmph but performance drops right off on anything over this.

Could inadequate cable size be a possible cause here? I have taken to the auto elec who tested with the trailer on and confirmed power is going to the plug ( 7 large round ) which like i said is the case at low speed.

Could this be the case?
Only had it for 2 month and apart from this and the 3 amigos appering its been good ( although not the fuel economy when towing lol )

With thanks,
Ben

40 amp reset is too large.
20amp was refered to earlier.

most trailer plugs cant handle too much current.

Ive been swaping to 13 pin flat for our fleet.
adrrequirement for ABS on trailer is 30 amp peak but it has no reference to reset system.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registrati...oads/vib03.pdf

Vintage Caravans - Caravan & Trailer Construction Rules in NSW & VIC.
interesting reading.my towbar has no plate so i have an engineers report.

bend2
play with gain adjustment.

I often drive long distance emply and have to readjust.often planned to fit a switch on the brake light circiut as it hits hard even when you pump up the pedal.mine is the older unit with the mirror adjustment the new digital looks as if you program it.

i was thinking of a pressure switch for the brake lights but that needs an engineers report.

Is the brake controller set up right? I know with mine (the older style) I need to change the settings dependant on my speed. What I have it set on the highway to will actually cause the trailer to lock up at slow speeds. What is good at slow speeds is crap at high speeds.

On mine there is two settings. Find a user manual and make sure it's set-up properly, and then have a play in a safe area to get to know how it will work for your set-up.


Cheers
Chris

Another thing to remember is that the drum brakes on the Jayco work better when they are warm ... so after traveling along the highway with no use for a few hours, they're not going to work so well the first few times when you need them to.


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Played around with the gain setings and whilst it make a difference at the lower speeds below 20kph it makes no difference once im going above this speed.

they do ut in occasionaly but not how it is supposed to be working.

Also does not matter if the brakes are warm or cold

I had 40amp anderson plug run to the tow bar to run some additional power for acesorys so may change the + and - from this plug and run into trailer plug to see if it helps.

Cheers

Originally Posted by Disco EMU

Another thing to remember is that the drum brakes on the Jayco w they're not going to work so well the first few times when you need them to.
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also the drum rear if they only get used a few times a year they get a lot of rust spots..hard spots.
i find that i give the manual control a few hits when i throttle off.

mine hits hard as i come to an intersection you can feel it through the tow bar. but you can feel it come off as you get to a gentle roll.the issues is that as the brakes use the stop lights to signal the control but your lifting of the brakes as you slow to a stop without realising it.

any issues like like borrow a rego brake tester with a graph printout.
you be supprised how the deceleration changes when you think its stopping.