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Thread: Ideas for securing camping fridge.

  1. #1
    damo_s Guest

    Ideas for securing camping fridge.

    Hi all,

    I have searched the forums for no avail. So i decided to start a new topic..

    Having just finished my dual battery setup, I wish to buy a fridge to make it all worthwhile . I have been thinking of how I want to secure the fridge in the boot, and im not sure how to go about it.

    Ideally I would like a fridge slide, but i am open to other ways of securing it. The fridge I will be getting is a 40L Engel, so it should fit in the boot lengthways. My problem is.. how do i mount the fridge slide? Is it possible to bolt it directly to the boot floor? Or is it too risky?

    I dont really want a drawer system in the boot, and i dont want to splash out $500 on a custom made fridge slide. I have seen some posts in forums on here where people have attached the slide directly to the boot floor in some way or other, but have not given an explanation how they did it (fair enough!).

    Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers,

    Damo

  2. #2
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    On my RRC, I rivetted 2 lengths of 3/16 steel to the floor which is corrugated in a late RRC, with several large rivets . This eis because the fuel tank is immediately below.

    I then put bolts through from within a corrugation with a nut on the top side. then drilled appropriate holes in the slide and mats to meet the bolts.

    This sounds a bit anal I know, but it makes it easy to fit and remove the slide as all you have to do is locate it onto the bolts and do up nuts.
    Seeing I do not take it out now, I have been considering removing teh steel plates and just putting Rivnuts in the floor.

    Regards Philip A

  3. #3
    Tombie Guest
    Damo,

    1x Sheet of Ply (16mm) the width of cargo area x depth of cargo area..

    4x bolts & Washers, same thread as factory cargo tie down points (I think 8mm)

    1x suitable length of Auto Carpet



    1/ Cut Ply to fit neatly in floor space.... Affix Carpet to Ply
    2/ Drill 4 holes in ply to match tie down points
    3/ Bolt fridge slide to board
    4/ Remove factory tie downs and bolt the board to floor using 8mm bolts and washers

  4. #4
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    On my RRC, I rivetted 2 lengths of 3/16 steel to the floor which is corrugated in a late RRC, with several large rivets . This eis because the fuel tank is immediately below.

    I then put bolts through from within a corrugation with a nut on the top side. then drilled appropriate holes in the slide and mats to meet the bolts.

    This sounds a bit anal I know, but it makes it easy to fit and remove the slide as all you have to do is locate it onto the bolts and do up nuts.
    Seeing I do not take it out now, I have been considering removing teh steel plates and just putting Rivnuts in the floor.

    Regards Philip A
    Wow Philip...

    I doubt either method would actually restrain the fridge in an impact...

    The rivets or rivnuts would just pull through the sheet metal...

    I hope you have a cargo barrier

  5. #5
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    I just ratchet strap mine to the tie down points in Smokey and climb in and out.........not like I don't need the exercise ,

    Regards

    Stevo

  6. #6
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    On my RRC, I rivetted 2 lengths of 3/16 steel to the floor which is corrugated in a late RRC, with several large rivets . This eis because the fuel tank is immediately below.

    I then put bolts through from within a corrugation with a nut on the top side. then drilled appropriate holes in the slide and mats to meet the bolts.

    This sounds a bit anal I know, but it makes it easy to fit and remove the slide as all you have to do is locate it onto the bolts and do up nuts.
    Seeing I do not take it out now, I have been considering removing teh steel plates and just putting Rivnuts in the floor.

    Regards Philip A
    I'm not sure that it would be that secure in an accident. I did this to get secure tiedowns in my RRC - see half way down in the Storage section: Ron's Range Rover Classic Modifications
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
    damo_s Guest
    Thanks guys. So a false floor is the best option so it seems. I assume the existing tie down loops are bolted in and there is a captive nut below? Are there any other captive nuts on the floorspace aside from the 4 where the tie downs are?

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
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    Wow Philip...

    I doubt either method would actually restrain the fridge in an impact...

    The rivets or rivnuts would just pull through the sheet metal...
    well I did do research.
    Each rivet has a rated load of 470Newtons in shear through sheet metal. I have I think about 6 on each steel plate.These are 4.7 MM steel rivets.

    Impacts would usually be in shear unless a roll over. The fridge weighs 20Kg plus contents maybe 40 kg. There would have to many more Gs than I would live through for that to move.

    I also have a barrier in case of roll over where Gs would be much lower.

    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
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    In a 60km/h crash the fridge will generate in excess of 10kNewtons..... You're covered for around 5.5kNewtons and that only works if the force was applied in a linear manner, however it's more likely the rearward rivets will get a lot more and sheer in fractions of a second increasing the load placed on the rest.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by damo_s View Post
    Thanks guys. So a false floor is the best option so it seems. I assume the existing tie down loops are bolted in and there is a captive nut below? Are there any other captive nuts on the floorspace aside from the 4 where the tie downs are?

    Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
    4 only & yes they have captive nuts so to speak. They are very strong too.
    There is a little room to move but the fuel tank is mounted below so be careful.
    As Tombie said just make a removable false floor fit/remove when needed
    Cheers

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