Thread: Clutch Problems - Please help...

pulling the engine out is easier and will allow you totidy up some other minor things on the way in.

If hes done and old school engine its the same process just with a few more wires and hoses to tag and label on the way in..

when it comes to mounting it up its the same basic engine shape thats been in use in landies since the 1980's

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

the clutch release bearing and the throwout bearing are the same object described by different manufacturers in the same way that throttle pedal and Accelerator pedal both mean the one on the far right that makes the engine go noisey.

Generally when you do the throw out bearing you also replace quite a few other clutch parts, not because they need to be changed but because pulling the engine/Box is a fairly involved job and not one you want to repeat 6-12 months later.

If you provided all the parts and $$ pretty much any mechanic would do it for you BUT I suggest you find one thats got a history of working on landies as it will get done a little faster and with less bullswalloping.

Id expect about an 8 hour labour charge and usually quote it out as a full days job + transit time when I do one as a call out on the customers driveway.

Hi Dave, thanks for both your replies. I've been doing a bit of research on line to understand whats what. I've taken Lp to two 'mechanics' specialising in LR/RR land and more recently one up my neck of the woods who was brilliant.

I'd be leaving it with him. Unfortunately though, it may be a case of doing the bare basics this time round and forking out the rest come tax time. I've got a 'worn' cam shaft needing replacing as well as a few oil leaks so will put the complete change over (new clutch kit) on the list ...

Main thing is to try and get something done to it before our 4y/o starts school on the 2nd Feb!.... Otherwise... I have no idea if this type of issue would last until tax time this year to get it all done???

Cheers,
Lp

Hi,
I seem to have 'misplaced' my RAVE cd... if at all possible please... could someone post a pic of exactly where the Master and Slave Cylinders are located in relation to the clutch. I'm blind without my Rave CD at the moment :-(

V8 D2

Very much appreciate the help... :-D

Thanks
Lp

the master cylinder is up on the firewall near the brake booster its the bit you check the clutch fluid level at.

there is a pipe coming out of that follow it down to the passangers side footwell in the engine bay, the bit it terminates into is the slave.

Thanks Dave,
Hubby checked the one for the brake fluid lol !!

Cheers,
Lp

Originally Posted by landyprincess

Thanks Dave,
Hubby checked the one for the brake fluid lol !!

Cheers,
Lp

He did good, D2's use the brake master cyl reservoir for the clutch fluid supply.

I think it is a hydraulics issue by the symptoms you are describing. Replace the master and slave cylinders at this point anyway as they will be getting on a bit AND is a lot easier and CHEAPER to change than removing the trans etc and finding out it ISN'T the clutch
I find the D2 gets the clutch fluid change neglected quite often and consequently we are now seeing quite a few with hyraulic cylinder seal failures

JC

Hi All....
thank you so very much for the replies. It's all doing my head in to be honest (as well as the VOIP at hm!!!)....I do appreciate the replies, i'm confuzed as to what's what - based on the replies, i've done a wealth of research and based on the noise experienced, everything is pointing towards a clutch/thrust bearing replace???

... Best case scenario those get replaced and it fixes my issues and i'm broke for a while... OR.... if that doesn't work... as JC suggested the Master/Slaves get replaced (and then I'm broke for a long time yet)..... hubby isn't confident working on Lp only because he probably doesn't want to incur the wrath of his wife trying to get 4 kids around LMAO! (mmmm)....

From my research there are so many differentiating opinions out there as well as folk who have done either and/or both... yet from the posts I have read (across allot of web sites) don't actually stipulate whether it's "fixed" their problems as apposed to "getting fixed"... if u know what I mean...

Hubby wants me to take it to John Bidders .... where he gets all manner of things done on his FJ. Not sure if anyone is familiar with JB - he's apparently meant to be great.... welcome the feedback :-D....

** edit** I also wanted to add - what is the deal with 'reconditioned clutches' ?? Noble Park Brakes & clutches in Dandenong are a VACC credited business and stipulate that service down... while they offer that, I am more interested in what exactly a clutch recondition entails. I couldn't find much that my brain understood on google/youtube....

appreciate the help...

Cheers,
Lp...

heres all you need to know about reconditioned clutches.

DONT.

reconditioned slave and master cylinders are ok Stainless steel sleeved ones are the best type if they are done correctly.

What I would do at this point IS.

remove the slave cylinder and check its condition and assuming its OK with a long extension bar get under the vehicle, start it up and use the socket end of the extension bar push on the clutch rod. If you get an unusual vibration along the bar OR you have to push it a long way before you hit resistance then youve found the problem.