Thread: Replacing Belt Tensioner pulley

Most parts on a vehicle aren't that hard to figure out. General idea - Take off some bits, take the belt off, undo some bolts, take off old part, put on new part, do up some bolts, put belt on, put on the bits. No, I'm not taking the ****, but the workshop manual won't tell everything on everything, as it is a reference, not a step by step time and motion book - after all the belt tensioner is only a part on the engine.

Without having done one, but worked on other bits in the area, most probably need to take the top shroud off, the battery box out (all the stuff inside it to start with - radio code may be an issue, if you have a LRD OEM stereo still) to gain easy access to the belt tensioner, see if the fan needs to be removed and take this off before taking the belt off, use a 3/8" drive to untension the belt, most probably a 13 or 14mm socket to undo the bolts for the tensioner (if unlucky a torx head bolt or socket will be in there somewhere!!).

Use a torque wrench to do up the bits (the workshop manual should tell you this figure). Use the workshop manual on how the serpentine is supposed to be threaded in and around the pulleys etc.

Originally Posted by bsperka

Most parts on a vehicle aren't that hard to figure out. General idea - Take off some bits, take the belt off, undo some bolts, take off old part, put on new part, do up some bolts, put belt on, put on the bits. No, I'm not taking the p!*s, but the workshop manual won't tell everything on everything, as it is a reference, not a step by step time and motion book - after all the belt tensioner is only a part on the engine.

Without having done one, but worked on other bits in the area, most probably need to take the top shroud off, the battery box out (all the stuff inside it to start with - radio code may be an issue, if you have a LRD OEM stereo still) to gain easy access to the belt tensioner, see if the fan needs to be removed and take this off before taking the belt off, use a 3/8" drive to untension the belt, most probably a 13 or 14mm socket to undo the bolts for the tensioner (if unlucky a torx head bolt or socket will be in there somewhere!!).

Use a torque wrench to do up the bits (the workshop manual should tell you this figure). Use the workshop manual on how the serpentine is supposed to be threaded in and around the pulleys etc.

The battery box is not neccessary.

Remove shroud
Remove fan. U need a fan nut spanner (ford 36mm... anyone?) plus 10mm spanner. 10mm spanner holds the fan hub on one of the 3 10mm bolts, while u go at the fan nut.
Once the fan nut is loose, spin the fan off, and now you have access to the tensioner.

14mm socket for the the tensioner spring bolt. This allows you to move the tensioner and release the belt. Belt off.

Then the bolts holding the tensioner on, can't remember, but I think two. pretty easy at this point.

Should be a 15min job.

cheers
NIck

Originally Posted by Hastykiwi

The battery box is not neccessary.

Remove shroud
Remove fan. U need a fan nut spanner (ford 36mm... anyone?) plus 10mm spanner. 10mm spanner holds the fan hub on one of the 3 10mm bolts, while u go at the fan nut.
Once the fan nut is loose, spin the fan off, and now you have access to the tensioner.

14mm socket for the the tensioner spring bolt. This allows you to move the tensioner and release the belt. Belt off.

Then the bolts holding the tensioner on, can't remember, but I think two. pretty easy at this point.

cheers
NIck

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exactly as it appears in this answer, it sits with a torx so it's fine to use the old 15mm socket with many edges, not by 8 kanter.så will go nicely the problem may be the fan did this last week, though I did a own software module to the fan, the good Englishman urban penzer have a statement on its Web site that is ten times better than my explanation even if it is for the crankshaft pulley I regret that I have not changed min as it is still the same job hope it goes well with this weekend's job . regret the bad English can not trade Language for the mechanic.
sweden

www.discovery2.co.uk/Faults and Fixes - articles

Originally Posted by Hastykiwi

The battery box is not neccessary.

Remove shroud
Remove fan. U need a fan nut spanner (ford 36mm... anyone?) plus 10mm spanner. 10mm spanner holds the fan hub on one of the 3 10mm bolts, while u go at the fan nut.
Once the fan nut is loose, spin the fan off, and now you have access to the tensioner.

14mm socket for the the tensioner spring bolt. This allows you to move the tensioner and release the belt. Belt off.

Then the bolts holding the tensioner on, can't remember, but I think two. pretty easy at this point.

Should be a 15min job.

cheers
NIck

Fair enough.. the point I'm trying to make is this, you move some bits, if you can't get to the part or its more comfortable taking out some more bits, then you do this. Then you undo the part, put on the new one etc.

In the end, it's a car, not brain surgery. Even with the electronic bits on there (ohhhh!!! so scary to 4WD Action authors, we don't like cars with electric windows, we don't trust them!!!!), it is the same principles for about the last 80 or so years.


Now, rocket science that's a different thing...... (No, it's not, it is basically what do you consider to be the system? One propulsion engine, all of them rockets or the complete unit etc....). They debated for 4 years on the best approach and someone new to the team made the decision in 1 hour of hearing the options - sound familar

Just note that the fan hub is a right hand thread (normal), a lot of people will tell you it should be left hand, but the bolt in the centre of the tensioner pulley is a left hand thread.

Cheers, Mick.

Originally Posted by greif

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exactly as it appears in this answer, it sits with a torx so it's fine to use the old 15mm socket with many edges, not by 8 kanter.så will go nicely the problem may be the fan did this last week, though I did a own software module to the fan, the good Englishman urban penzer have a statement on its Web site that is ten times better than my explanation even if it is for the crankshaft pulley I regret that I have not changed min as it is still the same job hope it goes well with this weekend's job . regret the bad English can not trade Language for the mechanic.
sweden

www.discovery2.co.uk/Faults and Fixes - articles

Damn yeah, I should have remembered the Urban Panzer articles. They are good stuff, well constructed, and with pictures. His will be a much better instruction than mine.

cheers
Nick

Thank

The reason for the question in the first place was because i was told by a proprietor of a land rover workshop that it was a major job about 7 hours and included removing radiator, sump etc $900. I just didn't want to get started and find i was out of my depth.

Thanks for the description Nick i have seen urban panzers article and will have a go at it tomorrow.

Regards

Paul