Thread: Installing front shocks ... problem

I find the Koni's much more 'supple' than the previous OME's. Very nice ride but have yet to have them on an extended rough trip. The OME's were awful on corrugations so keen to see how these go.

Originally Posted by jwb

I find the Koni's much more 'supple' than the previous OME's. Very nice ride but have yet to have them on an extended rough trip. The OME's were awful on corrugations so keen to see how these go.

Remember you can adjust the rebound on the Koni shocks. It is probably too late now for you, but it is well worth checking the setting on the shocks before installing.
I installed some extra long raids into my Rangie a couple of years ago. I never thought they were quite right. They were very hard and one side moved around more than the other. So I removed the rears and found that they had arrived with different adjustments on them. I adjusted both to the middle setting and they were great.

Thanks Adam. That has been on my to do list for a little while - ironically the reason for following this thread. Rears I can do easily, it's the front ones I'm concerned about getting in and out.

cheers, John

All

Procedure on how to replace all four shocks and the steering dampner. Another one for the D2 DIYers (specifically V8)

As I mentioned earlier I purchased all five shocks from OS (Britcar-UK) $320 including delivery. The price I received in Australia was $127 per shock so I bought some new tools with the spare change

Mine were stuffed, genuine shocks on the car with 140k on the clock. All would compress and not retract so can only assume the ACE and springs were working overtime.

Regards
Andrew

Nice guide Andrew, although I found this after I'd done the job.

On the TD5 I found that undoing the metal pipe between the turbo and intercooler at both ends and moving it out of the way made it far easier to get the turret clear on the passenger side. If you only undo at the turbo end you can't move the pipe sufficiently and the turret still fouls.

I used a 13mm socket plus 500mm 1/2" extension and ratchet on the turret nuts in the engine bay. It's probably a bit too long but gives good clearance from all the ancillaries and make getting the nuts on an off a doddle.

cheers
Paul

I had to wind back the adjustment on my new Koni Heavy Tracks so decided to try out the LR no jack method. It's absolutely doable and quicker than jacking the car up and taking the wheels off.

As far as I can see the only advantage to jacking is that you don't need to scrabble around on the ground as much. The access to the rear lower suspension bush bolt is slightly easier with the wheel off, but that is about it. The upside is it's easier to work on the turrets with the guard at normal ride height - a big plus for a short-arse like myself.

I'd not bother jacking unless you were doing the springs as well.

I was able to remove and replace all four shocks in under 2 hours, although this was the second run in 2 days so that counts for a bit

cheers
Paul

Dennis

Some reading relating to shocks in this post.

Regards
Andrew

Andrew_D did you find the rear of your disco very bouncy when under 40km/h? Almost like the Shocks weren't dampening the bounce, but fine when traveling over 60km/h?