Thread: Got Wood ?

Originally Posted by Fluids

Yes Wayne, I sure did ... However, a needle nose grease gun like we use for greasing chainsaw bar sprocket noses works just as well.

The "tool" I was sent was a plastic conical tit with a female thread in one end ... I have nothing it will fit too .... I think my needle nose grease gun will work just fine.

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Excellent !

I have one of those nice, metal, German ones that Jak Max import

Jobs done. Piece of cake getting it in ... got new bolts & nuts, 2 x 9/16" R/OE spanners, and because the Woody has better clearance around the bolt holes, there was enough room for the ring & open end of the spanners.

Re-assembled everything with anti-sieze, including the mating faces ... to grease the centre bearing in the DC, is going to require dropping the shaft as the grease point is on the inside of the arc formed by the DC join when the grease point is pointing downwards (vertical).

Might look at making a suitable 90deg adapter to fit the grease gun, which would enable greasing with the grease point at a horizontal position. Will have to be a real small steel tube bent 90deg ... the TW greasing adapter supplied won't fit in the gap.

The chainsaw needle nose grease gun is a good idea, but won't fit with the shaft on the vehicle ...

Now all I need to do is go for a test drive ... later

Kev. How much coin do these things cost?

Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?

I'll be getting wood once my current shaft goes, Slunnie pointed out I have one from a V8
No chirps yet, that goodness

Originally Posted by twr7cx

Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?

The rear shaft does not have a double cardon joint. Also if the rear lets go, and this should not happen as maintenance is simple on the rear, it is going to do a lot less damage. dmdigital had his front let go and it did 10K damage.
Punched a hole in the side of the auto amongst other damage.

Originally Posted by Mr Whippy

The rear shaft does not have a double cardon joint. Also if the rear lets go, and this should not happen as maintenance is simple on the rear, it is going to do a lot less damage. dmdigital had his front let go and it did 10K damage.
Punched a hole in the side of the auto amongst other damage.

One way to prevent such damage would be to install a tailshaft loop to contain it in an event of letting go. I ran one on my old supercharged Ford Falcon.

If the rear tailshaft lets go at the front, that could still make for a dangerous occurrence on the road, it can 'pole vault' the ass of the vehicle.


Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application .

How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.

A multiple double cardian joint shaft back and front would probably be nice for my 4" lift...

Have heard a lot about front uni on the rear shaft causing pole volting, however mythbusters tried their hardest to do it, and they could not get a car to flip. If this was a likely scenario, you would think that ADR's would require a safety ring.