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Thread: Got Wood ?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Why do you only do the front shaft and not the rear too?
    Main reason, is that the front shaft is not serviceable (no greasing points).

    by the time the uni's are worn, and it's time to replace them with greasable ones, the centre bearing in the DC join is probably stuffed, and while it can be repaired, the centering pins are usually worn to the point that the whole DC needs replacing .... and even if you are lucky enough to find the pins are OK, and you can replace the centre bearing, you STILL can't grease the centre bearing once its replaced ...

    The update D2 has a boot over the sliding join, with no grease point available ... it's not a spline, but a series of balls (like bearing balls). Sealed for life.

    Plus, if you do a lift, now I've had the genuine shaft out, the LR shaft doesn't articulate anywhere near as much as the TW DC does, so the increased angle causes the LR DC to fail sooner.

    The rear tailshaft has grease points, and is serviceable
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    One way to prevent such damage would be to install a tailshaft loop to contain it in an event of letting go. I ran one on my old supercharged Ford Falcon.

    If the rear tailshaft lets go at the front, that could still make for a dangerous occurrence on the road, it can 'pole vault' the ass of the vehicle.


    Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application .

    How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.

    A multiple double cardian joint shaft back and front would probably be nice for my 4" lift...
    Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.

    www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers
    www.slunnie.com - D2 Prop Shafts/Tom Woods shafts

    You'd only need double DC's with a extreme angles on the prop shafts.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Whippy View Post
    Have heard a lot about front uni on the rear shaft causing pole volting, however mythbusters tried their hardest to do it, and they could not get a car to flip. If this was a likely scenario, you would think that ADR's would require a safety ring.
    I have seen photographs of a few vehicles that this has happened to. Admitedly most were race/drag cars which were required to have the tailshaft loop and the other one was a heavily modified street car.
    As I said above I fitted one to my old Falcon as with the supercharger and other work done to it, I was putting a lot more power and torque into the tailshaft than Ford were considering when they designed it.
    But I will admit I have not seen evidence of it occuring to a standard vehicle.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.

    www.slunnie.com - Aussie Built Rovers
    www.slunnie.com - D2 Prop Shafts/Tom Woods shafts

    You'd only need double DC's with a extreme angles on the prop shafts.
    Yeah, it's not necessarily needed, but they look cooler! (would depend on pricing but). They're on my list of things to do then, need to finish this TC and rack first but.

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Just looking at the Tom Wood's website at Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Landrover Application .

    How hard is it to change the pinion flange? In order to have the more common four bolt STC3722 pinion flange.
    Any thoughts or comments on changing the pinion flange on the rear differential?

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fluids View Post
    Dave ... about $600 delivered to me ... Procomp in Vic .... or direct from Tom Woods in USA ... but the savings ex US are only around $50 or so, so I purchased locally.

    ... considering a genuine LR shaft is about $750 .....
    I was quoted $579.00 USD from TW for the multiple cardian shaft. Going to speak to Procomp and see what there price is. Is this the right mob, http://www.procomp.com.au/ , Pro Comp Australia?

  7. #27
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    Try http://www.jeepkonection.com.au

    I just rang them - tel:03 8795 7525

    Sent from my iPad using Braille
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Slunnie has a pretty capable and lifted Disco (IIRC it has a 4" lift) and he's only running a single DC front and rear.
    Tom Woods recommends the Multiple Double Cardian for lifts over 3"'s. I have now ordered one from him - not cheap at $749.00 delivered.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by twr7cx View Post
    Tom Woods recommends the Multiple Double Cardian for lifts over 3"'s. I have now ordered one from him - not cheap at $749.00 delivered.
    That's about what a stock LR one costs, and when you consider how much better a product your getting, it's not such a bad thing.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Muppet View Post
    That's about what a stock LR one costs, and when you consider how much better a product your getting, it's not such a bad thing.
    Yeah, I was lucky enough to check out one at Justin's the other day. A customer had purchased a Multiple Double Cardian to have fitted to the front of his D2 after the original tailshaft had failed. No doubt it's definitely a high quality product, so worth the coin.

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