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Thread: Outlet valve

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by alpick View Post
    Lycka till!
    I need that!!

    Tack!!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anders D View Post
    Thanks guys!
    Previous I’ve done the option B with an ongoing Three Amigos but without good result.
    Then I left my Disco to a shop and they discovered worn bearing. Got the Disco back and drove for a good three weeks and then those hated Three Amigos were back.
    I assume that the easiest way and where to start is to clean those ABS connectors. The wheel connection first and then the connection inside the modulator.
    I'll be back!
    Best wait until a full moon, and make sure you wave a chickens foot over each sensor once you complete the ritual cleansing. You could also try burying your diagnostic tool in a cows horn filled with manure for a month. You'll get far better results that way.

    Seriously - just check wiring from Modulator to SLABS ECU. You need to check the wiring on the pins relating to the outlet solenoids. Forget about the ABS sensors unless you are getting codes specifically relating to them.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    Best wait until a full moon, and make sure you wave a chickens foot over each sensor once you complete the ritual cleansing. You could also try burying your diagnostic tool in a cows horn filled with manure for a month. You'll get far better results that way.
    Never turn down a good advice

    Cheers

  4. #14
    chosenview Guest

    More questions than answers

    Hi all. New to the party but with the same problems.

    My investigations lead me to believe that my problem is in the ABS solenoid pack.

    Al - you wrote the below (in bold). before I buy a replacement can you post the details of the solder fix. May as well try that first.

    Paul - that ABS .jpg looks like it might be useful but I can't get it big enough to read. can you PM it?

    Also does anyone know what the voltage used by the SLABS ecu output to solenoid is. It manages to energise enough to pull back the plunger so can't be that small??? thought I might be able to mimic it and hear the plunger??

    Regards

    Steve





    Or could be ( and most likely),
    There is another tres-amigos cause to test for (or preemptively re-solder, as we do),
    There is a circuit board, within the modulator between the shuttle valve switches themselves, and the main harness connector to the modulator.* If intermittent*through the modulator board, The poor connection is generally a cracked solder-joint on the board in the solenoid block, and it must be located and repaired.* (OPTION Alternatively*the whole block can be replaced (Land Rover SWO500040, per TSB LTB00060), as so many are doing these days, with their blinders on,*ignoring the obvious brake fluid leaks.* Find a very good explanation here, of how to repair or bypass the old part, noting that the solder joints at the other end of the SVS proboscus also fail ... and can also be repaired.* Wheel speed sensors are common to the amigos too.* Again, our kit will not repair the circuit board or speed sensors: it only addresses the normal and most common problem causing the three amber warning lights.

  5. #15
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    You need to get yourself a copy of RAVE. The image is taken from the ABS Description and Operation section which is probably the best reference for the D2 abs system.

    You can also find good information covering the WABCO Type-D abs system from which the SLABS ECU is developed on the WABCO web site.

    Cheers
    Paul

  6. #16
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    Chosen view,

    The text of mine you quoted is from the falcon works website tech info on the Abs problems.

    They go on to refer readers to the virgin islands website which is probably the reference site for the problems and fixes. Take note of the problems encountered in trying to fix the cracked solder problem by re soldering.

    http://www.landroverclubvi.com/abs-mod.html


    Check it out, great pics and answers.

  7. #17
    chosenview Guest
    Ahh. I misunderstood. I have already done Option B. I thought the text refered to a circuit board inside the modulator block.

    I'm still looking for a way to test the operation of the relays, my skills are not good enough to work it out. Should a continuity test work? it does not seem to

    Steve

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by chosenview View Post
    Ahh. I misunderstood. I have already done Option B. I thought the text refered to a circuit board inside the modulator block.

    I'm still looking for a way to test the operation of the relays, my skills are not good enough to work it out. Should a continuity test work? it does not seem to

    Steve

    Option B bypasses a cracked solder joint on a circuit board which is part of the modulator block. This is what the quoted text is talking about.

    RAVE has a pin out and wiring diagrams for the braking system. If can't manage to find yourself a copy, you can always support the forum and buy one from here

    As I suggested previously there is some information in the WABCO documentation.
    Try the last page of this pdf:
    http://www.meritorwabco.com/MeritorW...ument/mm29.pdf

  9. #19
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    Hi all!

    Thought that I should report back with the result!!
    Changed the modulator: Still the hated Amigos grining at me
    Changed the rear left bearing: Problem solved

    Cheers!!

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