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Thread: any advice for replacing leaking rocker cover gaskets?

  1. #1
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    any advice for replacing leaking rocker cover gaskets?

    Hi
    need to replace both gaskets, guy at parts store thought these was two types of gasket, a rubber one and a cork one.

    vehicle is a 2000 D2 v8.

    I think the current gasket is a rubber type, is this assembled dry? or better to apply some sealer etc.

    Also, looking at American LR forums they seem to go for a diesel oil for their V8. Shell Rotella which I believe is not available here.

    I have gone through some of the threads here, anybody using a diesel oil in their V8?

    Cheers

    Justin
    Hawkes Bay
    New Zealand

  2. #2
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
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    Rubber gaskets on yours.

    Are you sure they don't just need tightening down. Try that first. The screws are notorious for coming slightly loose.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
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  3. #3
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    Hi Justin, the rocker cover seals are made of rubber - LVC100260. It is pretty straighforward to install them following RAVE, just lube them with bit of oil and you will be fine. No sealant required. Be careful when removing the old seals - there are brass spacers in the seals that if you are not careful can fall into the valley!!! For the LH gasket it is easier to undo the AC mount and position the AC aside for easier removal of the cover. Oil for v8 is always a big question, and there are full threads about it on the forum. I personaly use Penrite 10W50 since installing a new camshaft 70t km back. Recently I inspected the cam and was in perfect (like new) shape... People always reccommend oil with high amount of Zinc that is required for flat tappet engines like our v8s. Penrite seems to do the job pretty well... Regards! J

  4. #4
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    As said the spacers, confirm they are there, if not the cover can compress the gasket too far. Use some stuff called aviation perma gasket. Small white bottle with brush in lid. Just clean very well with turps first.

  5. #5
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    Justin

    I would think the gaskets would be stiff as by now (2000 - 2012). There should be a little tab on the gasket (to the left of the dip stick). If this is hard, there's your answer.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-...cement-v8.html

    Look at the above link for some information. Very handy and this is what I followed (even dropping stuff into the valley which is what you don't wont to do).

    Regards
    Andrew

  6. #6
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    Hi
    Cheers, the covers are not loose, in fact are probably too tight as the gasket is bulging out.

    Ive seen the Penrite oil with extra zdp (zinc?) would this type of oil be a better option?

    I have no service history and vehicle done 295kms, apart from leak and some electronic / electrical issues engine runs very well.

  7. #7
    zedcars Guest
    From my experiences the gasket goes hard.
    Yes the screws work loose.

    I always use a light application of silicon to '"glue" them down, seems to work!

    Be mindful of engine breathing and keep the breather clean on the valve cover. Especially so on the D1, and its collapse of the breather right angled hose to the plenum.

    As the engine gets older it tends to get a lot of additional crankcase pressure going which doesn't help.

    Yes I am big on the use of a zinc additive for 4.6 units, the cam lobe profile and flat tappet set up tends to wear heavily from about 80K miles if the oil is neglected. And yes again diesel lube oil from a good clean out or new-rebuild seems to do the trick. (Well so far it has on Mobil Delvac & Rotella)

    Problem I see is that the leaks from the valve cover propagate into the O2 sensors and corrupt the signal. This causes E test failures and in extreme circumstances I have had to do harness repairs to get some micro signals to work.
    Dennis
    zedcars

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