Thread: Do I have CDL?? Help please...

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

so who moved the cortina and torana??

Iconic 'australian' cars eh!! ... very far and few between these days too...

Thanks so much again for all the replies. He is currently fitting a new alternator (as new as one can be for a 75 series) to his fj40...

...atleast the good to come out of this... he will be an expert at removing my driveshaft as he is going to have to do it all over again tonight and take it to Hardie Spicer tomorrow for me...

cheers,
Lp

Mine is April 2000, have CDL internals but also have the bracket on the spigot, which is why in a previous thread on this I was insistent that it was larger than 10mm, I only have the nut to turn as the small lever to which the cable is attached is fitted.

A quick question that I hope is not off topic: Will a defender diff lock knob fit onto a disco lever once you have a cdl installed? Defender knobs are only $11 (LAND ROVER DEFENDER TRANSFER LEVER DIFF-LOCK KNOB | eBay) where as a discovery diff lock knob is like over $30 (discovery diff lock knob | eBay)

Originally Posted by gusthedog

A quick question that I hope is not off topic: Will a defender diff lock knob fit onto a disco lever once you have a cdl installed? Defender knobs are only $11 (LAND ROVER DEFENDER TRANSFER LEVER DIFF-LOCK KNOB | eBay) where as a discovery diff lock knob is like over $30 (discovery diff lock knob | eBay)

Hi Pricey.

I,m sure the Defender knob will screw on, but the Discovery one has a groove around the bottom that the gaiter goes over before being gripped by a rubber O ring.

The D1 knob will do the job, I dont know if its cheaper, and to the untrained eye, will look ok.

( the second picture showing transfer box knobs in the previous posts, is on a D1 ).

Cheers.

Del.

Hi Guys,
thought id revive a dead-thread rather than make a new one for what is probably a silly set of questions.


I originally bought my Disco last week (01 TD5 Man) almost certain knowing that there was no Centre Diff Lock.

Started doing more research and realised most of the Non- CDL internals VIN numbers were 2Axxxxx

Now, my Disco is an Oct/2001 build, which i'd regards as a 'late' 01
Checking the VIN, which is 1Axxxxx means its an early 01 apparently, despite being built in October.

Odd, I thought, but it gave me hope and motivation to actually check if i have CDL internals..
I crawl under and feel around and much to my delight, I have the CDL tell tale 'bolt' sticking out the top, with the three bolts surrounding it.

I check the transfer case stamping, which reads 41Dxxxx
So much more excitement!!

Now, from all the reading I've done indicated that once engaged(which i did so to check) that with the key turned to ACC, the TC and HDC lights do not turn on as normal, but instead the red Diff Lock light turns on.
However, Mine did not, with CDL both engaged or disengaged, a turn of the key still flashes the HDC, TC and ABS lights at startup.
Does this red Diff Lock light only illuminate after the 'ECU "snip"'?


And the other thing I couldn't wrap my head around was regarding the said 'snip'
All the install guides say to cut the Blue/Black wire going into Pin 9.

Whats the purpose of this wire snip this guide recommends?:
www.discovery2.co.uk/Factory Diff Lock

1. not snipping pin 9 means that with Diff Lock engaged, the TC, HDC and ABS will not work to full capacity
2. whereas if I do snip the wire, when CDL is engaged, all 4 systems will work 100% in unison at full capacity?
3. What is the purpose of installing a bullet connector/switch to reconnect this wire as per the above guide?
4. Does this mean to engage CDL i must disconnect pin 9 and re-connect it when I disable the CDL?
5. Does CDL have to be dis/engaged with the car off? or can it be done on the fly like hi/low range?

Sorry again for the thread dig, and for what ive noticed is a massive block of text,

Cheers, Cameron

Diff lock lamp will illuminate when diff is actually locked, which may require a rotation of the gearbox (ie- drive for a few metres). Similar situation when unlocking.

If ignition is switched from off to on whilst diff is locked, TC, ABS and HDC will illuminate and as far as I know will operate at a reduced capacity. Idea of modification to wiring is to alleviate this disablement.

Ignition should be on when locking and unlocking diff to avoid disablement. Others will likely fill in details on the above, I've not felt compelled to modify the electrickery.

Cheers mate, I'll try the drive a few meters and see if it turns on method


By the sounds of it, best methods is to just drive as normal and only lock the diff as required, with the ignition left on,
Which will keep the ABS, TC and HDC at full capacity, while still locking the diff(which is a mechanic system anyway- sounds like the ECU snip is only to disable TC which is sometimes not wanted at all and turn on the diff lock light?)

Given that my Disco is still stock, and is likely to stay fairly stock (besides perhaps a 1.5-2" lift) and is my daily, so I'm not going to be game enough for big hillclimbs... Infact the most full on action it'll probably ever see is maybe a trip along Stockton beach- more going to be a tourer(getting to decent campsites with the bike trailer), rather than an off-road monster,
am I best just leaving this wire connected?

Edit: done some more reading:
Seems leaving the wire attached will give 3 possible 'positions'
1. Engage CDL while car is on= Full TC, ABS and CDL
2. Engage CDL before turning car on= limited TC/ABS and full CDL
3. Not touching CDL= Full TC/ABS function

That is correct.

2" lift, good tyres and pressures and the CDL and your Disco will get you anywhere you need to go and beyond. They are a very capable vehicle. Spend 2.5k on a CDL lever, tyres and suspension and you'll be thrilled with it.

Mine tows bikes too. Disco + bikes + fire + beer = happy campers!