Thread: td5 auto gearbox removal

rear main, only if its weeping, the principle is the same for the td5 v the V8 for the gear box removal but if you dont have to touch anything on the box with the td5 its about 50/50 as to removing the engine VS the gearbox in terms of technical difficulty, the deciding factor is which you need to do more work on and what gear you have available to do the work.

Done a couple with fellow brit Urban Panzer.....doing another on Saturday.

Depending on what equipment you are using will depend on how you do it.

We have been using a 4post list with a transmission jack but still separate the transfer box from the auto. Separating them means you can also change the trans box input seal and the auto output seal.

If you changing or removing the torque converter you should separate them anyway so you can unbolt the tail shaft an tip the box on it's end to correctly seat the torque converter on the oil pump drive.

You can also do it on the drive (not that I would like to mind!) with the engine crane in through the front door and the centre console trim removed. this is only good for the trans box. the auto box would have to be done from underneath with a trolly jack and cradle.

Never done it the last way. Mr Panzer may be able to add some info.

Td5 Auto removal TSB attached.

Chris, ease of DIY is dependant on your aptitude, or your mates, and equipment.
I did mine in the driveway, box and tfer as one, no cradle and a Trog for help( not to mention, a Knight in shining armour, talking me through some parts over the phone). Neither of us with any great experience with box R and R.
With time lost due to incorrect parts supplied, fiddling with blocks of wood and straps, frozen bolts, LR design quirks, work and weather it took a few WEEKS! Yes, this is extreme.
Others reckon they can do it in 3 hours.
WSM quotes 10hrs(naturally with hoist, trans jack and able assistance), my local Specialist charges the same, $1000. After losing so much time I would pay the money without hesitation. BUT! now I know the correct angles, shortcuts and how to hold my tongue to get it out( and mostof the scars have healed) I might do one again.

That said. You need to takethe sump off, do your Oil pump bolt while you are there. Considering the cost of a rebuild, madness not to spend the~$40 to replace.
Rear main is fairly easy, it even comes with the fitment guide sleeve now.
Torque converter seal. Make sure you are supplied with the HP22 NOT HP24 seal.

Don't mean to sound too negative, but too many seem to liken the job to an oil filter change. It's not. If you have the time and space, give it a go.

PS! There are 3!!! Bell housing bolts across the back of the motor, NOT 2! Stupid bloody book oh, the sump/main seal/bell housing/ gasket alignment is a PITA, take your time there.
Good luck, whichever way you go.
BDave.

Hello,
I have done mine to fitted a Ashcroft TC and flex plate, you have to get the auto box on the ground, to get the TC out quite heavy and to refit the TC spin it in place has to drop in 3 slots, there is a measurement, DO NOT get that bit wrong as it breaks the oil pump on start up not good,

The problems I had were weight had a gearbox jack, took it off in transfer box first then auto box. I broke my crank sensor as banged it a few times, manged to pull the wires out of the gearbox ecu loom very short, took ages to refit the High-Low and diff-lock cables as didn't mark them. I was on my own I changed all gearbox seals but left the crank one. The worse bolt was to one above the crank sensor as could not get at it in the end used a spanner and a 1meter pipe very tight, 15mm in socket and spanner was the most used, I made a attachment for the jack after looking at the Land Rover tools, did the front drive shaft and double Cardin while it was out, with Hardy spicers ones,

It took a weekend to get it out because of hard bolts and not having the right spanners, had to heat up quite few but didn't break any. It was fun to do but at the time it was 40 degrees had it jacked up so I could sit underneath. The next weekend to refit, you could do it in one weekend if you have all the gear.

Would I do it again NO I would pay the $1000 and pick it up the next day.
Hope this helps you
Ian

Hey Ian,,
would love to hear a report on how the new TC goes,,

Hello,
I have had the TC in the car for about six months now. I took a little while to adjust my driving, when driving normally and not pushing to hard, it changes gear around 1800rpm and just a shade over 2000 rpm, if going very slow (rare) it does change at 1500rpm.

The biggest difference is that when you want go faster or over take the speedo rises and the revs go up slowly, whereas before the revs would jump to 3000rpm and nothing would happen, now the car picks up very quickly. when the TC locks up if you do not look at the rev counter you do not notice that you are in lockup, MPG did increase.

The points to remember is that I do have VNT, really great TD5 Inside remap, LPG, 3inch S/S exhaust lots of other bits that really make it go very well, I did have the TC on the car before the remap and it was not so good. It does feel like a higher gear and you do the extra HP to spin it. I fitted the 3 inch a couple of weeks ago and it seemed to lose a lot of low down power but gained a huge amount over 2000, then fitted a new MAF and all is good again.

The reason I changed I had read that they were great is that I had read lots about them and I knew that my car had done almost 200000ks so better to replace before it destroyed my auto box.
On the whole it was a good move. Despite my little mistakes it was well worth it
Ian

Hmm , I am in the process of ordering an ashcroft tq but jusrfishing's post seems to confirm my concerns about it .

Firstly I am aware the box is a big job and if I had my shed I would probably pull the engine and do it that way . May take a bit longer but will be able to check a coulpe of other things at the same time . As it happens it looks like it will have to go in and get done , money I could spent sorting it once installed .

My box sounds just like justfishing's , basically I gas it to about 2500 and it slowly picks up , if the hill is average it will drop speed . More gas makes more noise , that's all . However once on the highway above 85 if I pull it into 3rd , hold a constant speed and flick it back to 4 , the lockup comes in and its a different machine , pulls like a train .

Once in I will let you know what I think , I expect I will need more grunt . All it has now is a max tune nnn ecu , as the med tune msb ecu died . The centre muffler is gone as is the egr . Currently looking at winding up the boost . Then I guess its a new intercooler .

Off to search the web for a boost and egt guage