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Thread: Bleeding the coolant header tank Td5

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Bleeding the coolant header tank Td5

    G'day.
    Figured as I've been running mainly water in the coolant tank (Still nice and pink though ) I should probably get some proper coolant in there quick smart.
    Looking through RAVE, and the instructions on how to empty it seem just a tad confusing, so would somebody be able to maybe translate it into simple speak for me?
    The way I read it is:
    1: Remove filler cap
    2: remove drain plugs from cylinderblock
    3: Disconnect bottom hose from radiator (Pics of which one would be greatly appreciated, does the bumper need to come off for this?)
    4: Disconnect hose from thermostat (More pics please? ) to drain.

    then to refill its:
    1: low pressure water flush
    2: re-apply drain plugs with loctite 557.
    3: re-attach hose ends to radiator and thermostat.
    4: release top hose and remove bleed screw
    5: unclip bleed hose
    6: remove expansion tank, add 4 litres coolant (Coolant or Coolant/water mix?)
    7: lift header tank, coolant drains into system
    8: refill tank until steady flow from bleed screw
    9: fill up to header tank neck.
    10: Put it all back together and run up to normal temp, then check level later.

    Just so I know, what's the issue with running water in the coolant system?
    Is it really only an issue when its 99% water, as my coolant would be pretty diluted by now, but its still very pink.
    any other tips?
    Cheers
    Muppet

  2. #2
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    Corrosion and lowered coolant boiling point will be the main issues.

    Skip the manuals method for refilling and checkout the thread I did on the coke bottle fill method.

    Generally.to flush the cooling system of residual coolant/flushing agent I just disconnect a heater hoses hook up a fresh water supply and leave the engine and tje hose running until the water.runs cleanly.

    If I'm doing a proper flush I remove every hose and use the flush gun on every component individually before replacing the hoses.
    Dave

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  3. #3
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    If you're just doing this to increase the concentration of the coolant then I'd be tempted to just raise the header tank, fill it up with neat coolant and then drain the system down a little at a time (until the tank is just about empty so as not to draw any air in) and then refill the tank - do this a few times and you'll be up to 50/50 pretty quickly.

    I need to drain mine to change the lower hose this weekend and I just let it all out of the bottom and then refill as per the last part of your message, just giving a few hoses a squeeze to release any trapped air.

    The coolant is in there to act as a corrosion inhibitor - the last owner of mine ran neat water for a while (probably to hide the leaking radiator!) and I've had to clean up a lot of messy hose joints.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys.
    Blknight, where are the heater hoses, and how would I disconnect one?
    Apologies if this is basic, but its the first flush I've done
    Cheers
    Muppet

  5. #5
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    Okay so, first question.
    Be this the bleed screw?


    And be this the drain plug?


    Cheers
    Muppet

    EDIT
    Wow, only just realised the appalling quality of those photos.
    I hope they are clear enough to pick what's what

  6. #6
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    Drain plug seems to have seized.
    Sub zero temperatures and low light means it gets put off until tomorrow.
    Might have to go knock on slunnies door over the weekend with a case of beer

  7. #7
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    Don't force the drain plug or the coolant pipe will crack around the hole, it's safer to unclip a hose down there, probably on the right hand side as you look down from the front.

    Likewise, don't overtighten the bleed screw or you'll strip the thread on the hose insert.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marmoset View Post
    Likewise, don't overtighten the bleed screw or you'll strip the thread on the hose insert.
    x2
    I learnt this the hard way, as well as why people say carry a spare set of radiator hoses. Did this to mine halfway between Tenant Creek and Alice Springs.

    Luckily I do carry a roll of rescue tape - held it together for a very nervous few hundred kilometres.

  9. #9
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    I can't recall if I posted the photo I took of my leaking oil cooler after it was replaced recently.

    The corrosion that can (and undoubtedly will) develop after running incorrect coolant:water ratios is nasty. Mine had several holes in the spigot that exits the rear of the cooler.

    I'll see if I've got the photo on my laptop and post it here.

    Try here.

    It's very reassuring knowing that your cooling system is working how it should...and to also have no oil leaks is pretty close to LR heaven!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disco Muppet View Post
    Okay so, first question.
    Be this the bleed screw?


    And be this the drain plug?


    Cheers
    Muppet

    EDIT
    Wow, only just realised the appalling quality of those photos.
    I hope they are clear enough to pick what's what
    Thats it, top pick is the air bleed, bottom pic is the drain.

    I fill the coolant system and then lift the bottle until fluid comes out of the bleed hole. When the coolant is coming out then put the screw back in again. Set the fill bottle back into its mount, make sure it goes in properly and then start the engine - this will bleed more air out of the system and top up as required. Take it for a short run and check the coolant levels again as air will keep coming out. When you do this, set the AC to hot to make sure coolant flows through that too.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

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