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Thread: CJT's D2 Battery Install - Opinions Please

  1. #1
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    CJT's D2 Battery Install - Opinions Please

    I am redoing the batteries etc in the D2 prior to wiring up the dual winches, compressor, fridge and accessories.

    As I am going to possibly have a very large current draw on the main battery supply duw to the winches and large compressor I am thinking along the following lines.
    • Dual battery tray under the bonnet holds 2 x 80AH batteries wired in parallel as a single power source for high amp requirements (winching, running the D2, compressor, LED light bars etc.)
    • Dual Optima's sitting in cargo area, again wired in parallel giving 110AH capacity to run the fridge and some LED camp lighting.
    This is all controlled by a Traxide SC80 controller and I am looking into a solar feed while extended camping to trickle feed the batteries.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.


  2. #2
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    The sc80 will not save your cranking battery from low voltage wired that way

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    Hi northiam, I think Chris’s intention is to have a 160Ah cranking battery.

    Chris, and the only thing missing from the diagram is 50 amp Circuit Breakers, at the front and rear positive battery terminals.

  4. #4
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    Hello drivesafe
    Im looking into a second battery for camping etc.
    CJ still risks killing the cranking battery? Wouldnt using just one battery for cranking only then your sc80 would disconnect if the voltage gets to low.
    Thanks

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi northiam, I think Chris’s intention is to have a 160Ah cranking battery.

    Chris, and the only thing missing from the diagram is 50 amp Circuit Breakers, at the front and rear positive battery terminals.
    Yep, the setup uses the 2 x 80ah batteries in parallel to create a single 160ah cranking battery for use with all the high draw accessories.
    • Each winch when in use draw up to 338 amps
    • The compressors draw up to 70 amp each
    The second set of batteries are setup the same way in the cargo area for fridge and camp light usage only and will have a solar charge connected to them as well.

    In regards to the 50A curcuit breakers, do you mean inline between the battery positive terminals and the SC80 unit?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by northiam View Post
    Hello drivesafe
    Im looking into a second battery for camping etc.
    CJ still risks killing the cranking battery? Wouldnt using just one battery for cranking only then your sc80 would disconnect if the voltage gets to low.
    Thanks
    Northiam,

    The way I have proposed uses the 2 x 80ah batteries as a single cranking battery.

    From what I have researched it is best to connect your positive feed from the auxilary to one of the batteries and your negative earth to the second battery in the bank.

    You then link the positive terminals and the negative terminals on the two batteries creating one big one.

    Just make sure you dont go positive to negative etc or you will be creating 24v by connecting the batteries in series.

    So, even though I have two sets of batteries proposed you should really think of them as only two batteries and the SC80 will work as intended.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by CJT View Post
    Northiam,

    The way I have proposed uses the 2 x 80ah batteries as a single cranking battery.

    From what I have researched it is best to connect your positive feed from the auxilary to one of the batteries and your negative earth to the second battery in the bank.

    You then link the positive terminals and the negative terminals on the two batteries creating one big one.

    Just make sure you dont go positive to negative etc or you will be creating 24v by connecting the batteries in series.

    So, even though I have two sets of batteries proposed you should really think of them as only two batteries and the SC80 will work as intended.
    Chris, I'm likely to go a similar way but am considering one equivalent large battery in the engine bay instead of your two. It was pointed out to me that one problem of my approach is that if for some reason I lose power to my cranking battery I'm then at more risk than if I had 2 separate cranking batteries one of which could be voltage protected (and therefore I become reliant on getting power from my rear batteries). Unlikely scenario, but??? Carrying a generator might be one overkill option.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Chris, I'm likely to go a similar way but am considering one equivalent large battery in the engine bay instead of your two. It was pointed out to me that one problem of my approach is that if for some reason I lose power to my cranking battery I'm then at more risk than if I had 2 separate cranking batteries one of which could be voltage protected (and therefore I become reliant on getting power from my rear batteries). Unlikely scenario, but??? Carrying a generator might be one overkill option.
    edit: Sorry missed comment about an additional isolator between the two starter batteries.

    Wiring the batteries in series doesn't give any more protection from discharge than a single large battery of the same AH rating. Because the batteries are in a bank charge is drawn from both batteries equally, so if one battery in the bank is flat that other will have the same state.

    I believe the Traxide USI-160 has a jump start mode which will allow you to start off the rear batteries if they have sufficient charge left in them.

    cheers
    Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    edit: Sorry missed comment about an additional isolator between the two starter batteries.

    Wiring the batteries in series doesn't give any more protection from discharge than a single large battery of the same AH rating. Because the batteries are in a bank charge is drawn from both batteries equally, so if one battery in the bank is flat that other will have the same state.

    I believe the Traxide USI-160 has a jump start mode which will allow you to start off the rear batteries if they have sufficient charge left in them.

    cheers
    Paul
    I agree. However I was thinking that it should be possible to set up a system whereby the connections between the two should be able to include a voltage protector of some kind for one of them
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    I'd use a USI-160 instead of the SC-80.

    As its switchable, you could use the "winch mode" to manually interconnect the rear batteries to the front batteries for massive winching current/time. As said, you can switch it to jump start yourself if your front batteries are questionable. You can run it switched to be a simple solenoid/isolator so the rear batteries disconnect automatically when you stop the engine, or you can use its "shared" mode so when your powering the fridge and camping accessories you effectively get the capacity of a whole one of those 80A front batteries in parallel with the rears giving you 190A of aux' battery power ( and the USI-160 will still disconnect the two battery banks when the front batteries drop to 12v, leaving you more than enough to start the engine)

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