Hi Jose,Quote:
Originally Posted by td5inside
please check you PM s
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Hi Jose,Quote:
Originally Posted by td5inside
please check you PM s
I've located someone with a nanocom. Wat should I do? [emoji16]Quote:
Originally Posted by td5inside
So,....after reading all 16 pages of this thread, and I must say a BIG :BigThumb: to OffTrack (Paul) :TakeABow:, I have come to the following conclusion(s) and would just like someone to perhaps confirm my thinking or steer me in the correct direction.
I have a 2000 D2 TD5 Auto with ACE. (currently MSB ECU) VIN SALLTGM93YA28xxxx
I have a Nanocom Evolution
I have an NNN ECU (NNN500030) from donor D2a TD5 Auto.
Now the tricky bits. I don't want (cost prohibitive at this point) to change AAP or pedal.
So for me to install this NNN ECU,...
I need to read the current map from the ECU, to make sure it hasn't already been remapped (which I doubt), and to retrieve injector codes. Correct?
Then I need to download the correct map file from Map Generator, being NNN500030, sutdp014-suhde036.map. Correct?
Then swap out ECUs and using Nanocom to allow new ECU to sync security. Correct?
Then install downloaded map to new ECU. Correct?
Then reconfigure injector numbers. Correct?
And this should (with fingers crossed) now work without any mysterious/ghostly fault codes. Correct?
And this may give me a marginal improvement in performance/economy/drivability. Correct?
And to gain a little more improvement (later) I should remove the muffler and install a D2a intercooler. Correct?
And to get even better performance (at a later stage) a remap utilising the existing EU2 map file. Correct?
How do I change the VIN?
Can I change the VIN?
Do I need to change the VIN?
Do I need to connect battery charger, as I read somewhere, is there that much drain?
Sorry for so many questions and I'm hoping I have assimilated the information correctly, but I can't afford to stuff this up and have this thing on tilt tray to a mechanic.
I have read quite a bit from a search of this forum and other places and this is the best information I have found. Just need to get it straight in my head. If there is any other information about my car that is required, just ask.
If, by some miracle, I have all the above correct and there are any other tips or tricks then please let me know.
And if we ever meet in person Paul, more than happy to shake your hand and purchase you a beverage of you choice.
Still in awe of this forum, it's members and the knowledge.
When I remapped my EU3 , I bought a 20amp 12volt power supply from Jaycar, which is really 13.8 volts and connected it to the primary battery.Quote:
Do I need to connect battery charger, as I read somewhere, is there that much drain?
.
I have considerable voltage drop on my Optima battery when I turn on the ignition , down to just on or under 12 volts, so yes I think there is a large drag of current, maybe to energise the capacitors in the ECU, and someone has suggested that the glow plugs are lit even if the light is not on.
Seeing the danger is bricking the ECU, I think it was money well spent.
Regards Philip A
mate get the injector codes with the Nanocom then swap ECU put your injector codes into new ECU and you should be on your way
Got an 99 D2 td5 with an NNN ecu, had an MSB ecu and got an Td5inside one and plug it in and change the injector codes and synced the security code, took less that 5min and off it went
alternatively you can ask td5 inside to supply an eu2 remap but in your case you would fit the NNN to your car to read the map first.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chook1961
oh and I tried to answer your questions in red but that didn't work obviously [bighmmm]
Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Thanks for the answers, just needed to confirm what I'd read. In regards to the battery I have a Redarc solenoid connecting second battery and have installed a push button override in case of flat starter battery. Would pressing this button for the duration of the flash be sufficient to maintain enough voltage? Don't want to "brick" the ECU, not cheap to replace.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chook1961
no you don't want any voltage spikes, so either jump the solenoid or the push button , or even jumper leads between batteries, you'll have enough to do without holding a button in
If you can fully over ride the 'jump start' switch, I reckon you'd be OK.
But heed discorevy's advice. If you plan to hold it for the duration of the reflash .. I'd say DON'T! you don't want to be kicking yourself for sneezing/forgetting/etc.
I have the Redarc DBS and fitted a momentary push switch for the jump start feature. Helps to hold battery voltage when preheating.
Are both your batteries in good nik?
I'm assuming the switch is a momentary type? That's what they recommend. If the flash takes 10mins or so, do you really want to be holding it in for that long.
Did you fit the switch, and or Redarc? (ie. do you know how it works?)