Remapping EU2 motors - a word of warning

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by MarknDeb

mate get the injector codes with the Nanocom then swap ECU put your injector codes into new ECU and you should be on your way

---

I'm not gonna dignify this with an answer :wallbash:

I found that my Nanocom loves heaps of power. I have best success when I charge the battery fully first and then leave the charger on the battery while I use the nanocom.
With the old ECU I used the Nanocom to look at every option and setting and wrote it down the same so when it came to a using the NNN ECU I could replicate the same settings. Sometimes knowing the door code is super handy (EKA code I think?). I Had to use the code several times to be able to start the D2 after a ECU flash or flat battery. It is simple once you know how.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AK83

Are both your batteries in good nik?
I'm assuming the switch is a momentary type? That's what they recommend. If the flash takes 10mins or so, do you really want to be holding it in for that long.
Did you fit the switch, and or Redarc? (ie. do you know how it works?)

---

Yes both in good nick, yes it is a momentary switch, yes I istalled it.
No I'm not going to use it for this operation, if it is gunna take 10mins, I didn't know how long it would take. I have printed off the Flashing Porcedure from BBS and the only time frame mentioned is turning the ignition off for 15 seconds.

I may go and have a look at the power supply mentioned by Phillip.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Neavesie

With the old ECU I used the Nanocom to look at every option and setting and wrote it down the same so when it came to a using the NNN ECU I could replicate the same settings. Sometimes knowing the door code is super handy (EKA code I think?). I Had to use the code several times to be able to start the D2 after a ECU flash or flat battery. It is simple once you know how.

---

Yep, that is the plan. Get all the info I can before anything else. Thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sierrafery

I'm not gonna dignify this with an answer :wallbash:

---

I wasn't going to do that. After all I've read I knew it wasn't that simple.

Will he also have to also set the new ECU for a 2 pot TPS?
Nick

An addendum for this:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chook1961

....being NNN500030, sutdp014-suhde036.map. Correct?....

---

it's not incorrect but there is another for the ROW, see attached list

Attachment 143459

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sierrafery

An addendum for this:
it's not incorrect but there is another for the ROW, see attached list

---

Yep, knew there was two, was using the European one based on OffTrack's recommendation at the start of this thread.
Do you feel the ROW version is better? I do have the EGR deleted if that makes any difference.

Happy for any and all information before I get the tools out.

Offtrack rules in this area so follow his advice, anyway IMO non of those two standard maps are with de-EGR'd fuel map

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chook1961

Yes both in good nick, yes it is a momentary switch, yes I istalled it.
No I'm not going to use it for this operation, if it is gunna take 10mins, I didn't know how long it would take. I have printed off the Flashing Porcedure from BBS and the only time frame mentioned is turning the ignition off for 15 seconds.

....

---

In case you don't get a power supply, your idea should should work.
But as you have a momentary switch(as I also do), the only thing you'd have to do is to bridge the blue wire on the redarc to the Aux terminal(which is what the switch does).

So you'd disconnect the wire you added to the blue wire terminal at the redarc, use another wire to plug into thos blue wire spade connector and then connect the other end of this new wire to the Aux terminal.
If you do this, you have achieved the same action as the switch you installed, but without the need to hold the switch it. [thumbsupbig]

I have my Hyundai Elantra hooked up to the Disco when i remap with jumper leads, i bricked 1 ecu and dont want to try that again

So isn't good to have gone for an drive to charge the battery and the do an reflash?