Sounds like a sprag failure, the same that afflicts the D1s pretty badly.
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22/4E FAQ'S
I was out leading a trip(as I do from time to time) and we came to a slow wet patch.
As i entered under gentle throtle at walking pace I went to throttle off.
This was when I heard a loud sharp mechanical clank, I then had no drive
Pulled it into 1st and it drove out..what the.
This is where I'd like some imput from the AULRO brains trust
So what I have is ...
No big leaks from anywhere on the transmission(and cooler pipes) or transfer box.
A small pre-existing weap between the bell housing and trans body(doesn't drip only a small weap).
Transfer box box working fine(Low/high/ctr diff).
Selects reverse OK.
Can't select 4/3/2, only engages when 1st is selected.
Needs to be driven to @ 2,000RPM before it will engage 2nd manualy,same into 3rd.
Down shifts and upshifts if kept over @ 25KM/H, any slower it's pull it into 1st agian.
It felt like it held 4th and lockup better but I was babying it.
No flashing lights either.
I havn't checked the fluid level as no leaks and I wanted to ask your thoughts first.
Recent work was a transfer box removal for seals and shims+ the auto adaptor shaft removed at the same time.
The fluid was full at this time.
12 months or more ago I did the cooler pipe blow the swage thing but it's been fine since then, till now.
So any ideas what it could be?
Specialist or DIY?
Thanks, Kyle
Oh, yes I swaped into the RRC for the rest of weekend, can't miss a trip![]()
Last edited by alien; 7th October 2012 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Lost 1/2 on an edit.
Sounds like a sprag failure, the same that afflicts the D1s pretty badly.
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22/4E FAQ'S
yes, I would agree Sprag failure
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
I think your both right.
Had a read of Ashcrofts site,thanks for the link, and the syptoms fitt.
Better it went close to home than over in the flinders next year I guess(think positive,think positive).
Time to make a call to the guys Bacicat2000 used and go from there.
Can more damage be done if I drive it 40Km at highway speed for repairs?
And to answer my own question
From the Ashcrofts site...
I have a 4sp ZF, when I select "D" the vehicle won't move, when I select "1" the vehicle moves off. I can then select "D" and continue to drive normally. If I stop I have to start in first again. Why?
A sprag clutch has "inverted" and will need replacing. No further damage will occur if you continue to drive but you will need to select "1" every time to start moving. A rebuild is required to correct this.
not unless theres already swarfing from the parts.
check the oil condition (you may need to drop the pan) if theres not metal in there then you'll get away with gentle driving and using it as a manual.
I dont reccomend it but it can be done.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Had this happen to me.
Drove it for 1000miles before swapping it out for another box.
It's just a semi automatic for a while![]()
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