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Thread: TD5 Exhaust Manifold Temperatures?

  1. #11
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    900.C is easily obtainable with chip upgrades etc. Watched the EGT guage a lot after installation.

    Maximum recomended temp for exhaust temp hitting the turbo is 703.C as I understand.
    Above 703.C, the turbo starts to receive damage that can become unrepairable if the high EGT's are sustained.

    Kind of makes you wonder about chip upgrades, as most people who sell or install them say nothing of the damage that excessive EGT's can cause to the turbo

    Cheers,

    Jason

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanP View Post
    Dave, when you say 'cone washers' are they the Belleville washers or a non spring washer? The other question is about the spring washers you are using - are they a particular 'type' as my understanding is that 'normal' spring washers lose their 'spring' above 400C.

    Cheers
    Ian
    for the spring washers I typically use the black high tensile version of the spring washers.

    I havent used a belleville washer yet but they may work just as well by themselves as the cones and springs that I do use.



    thats the appearance of the cone washer I do use.
    Dave

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  3. #13
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    I did have this question also, but to answer it I purchased and installed an EGT gauge..

    OMG!!!! with the remap I have from Marc at, Beechboro 4x4 (in Malaga, W.A.) it will happily hit 1050 degrees pushing it up a hill or overtaking!!!! Hits 900 degrees in a blink of an eye.. Thinking it may be over fuelled! (EGT gauge installed in middle of manifold, pre-turbo)

    To check, I re-installed my standard ECU (originally had the non-programmable and upgraded to a programmable) and I still managed about 705 degrees on a VERY long hill but generally maxed at 650 degrees (though sat higher than remap cruising on the highway) - but had absolutely no power and couldn't maintain 110kph in top gear (auto).

    As a result, I now slow down on hills and overtake more slowly unless required, to at least keep it under 900!

    The mods I have are 255/65x18 tyres (about 31.5inch) 2inch lift, EGR removed, Middle silencer removed (however looking at alternatives as it is too noisy with the auto!) silicon hoses and D2a intercooler. Also has a roof rack and ARB bullbar and winch (adding to the strain).

    A bit long winded I know, but shows you at least two variances of temps you could be looking at.

  4. #14
    Sharkee Guest
    I've just installed a new turbo, the egr blank, new studs and mine is also chipped. I don't have the egt guage and geez dont think I want it as I tow a van and would be crapping myself if I had to watch the temps going up to these levels . I start panicking if my water temp guage moves a mm. Not feeling very good about it all now I must say.

  5. #15
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    Hello,

    Are there any chip installers/upgraders that have any input into this thread??

    I am interested as to whether the reflashed ECU's or the plug in chips are better for controlling EGT's, and keeping EGT's at a safe temperature for the turbo.

    I am highly interested as to how to control the EGT's hitting the turbo. I have found that with a plug in chip that all the power you need is there, but, the temp alarm goes off regularly and I have to back off the throttle to keep the EGT's below recomended levels(Is that as simple as it really is???). I have in fact removed the chip as it was a pointless exercise because of the probable damage to the turbo.
    Yes there is extra power, but at what cost?? It appears to be a case disgruntled person with not enough disposable income for the cost of extra power(damn mortgage!!!).

    The sensor for the EGT is mid stream just prior to the turbo. Is this not the ideal place for the temp sensor??

    Cheers,

    Jason

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Bullfrog View Post
    OMG!!!! with the remap I have from Marc at, Beechboro 4x4 (in Malaga, W.A.) it will happily hit 1050 degrees pushing it up a hill or overtaking!!!! Hits 900 degrees in a blink of an eye.. Thinking it may be over fuelled! (EGT gauge installed in middle of manifold, pre-turbo)

    To check, I re-installed my standard ECU (originally had the non-programmable and upgraded to a programmable) and I still managed about 705 degrees on a VERY long hill but generally maxed at 650 degrees (though sat higher than remap cruising on the highway) - but had absolutely no power and couldn't maintain 110kph in top gear (auto).

    As a result, I now slow down on hills and overtake more slowly unless required, to at least keep it under 900!
    I would be very concerned if I had your EGT. They're way too high. Your vehicle is likely running far too rich.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    for the spring washers I typically use the black high tensile version of the spring washers.

    I havent used a belleville washer yet but they may work just as well by themselves as the cones and springs that I do use.



    thats the appearance of the cone washer I do use.
    Your image doesn't display, Dave, but clicking on the icon seems to make it appear.
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  8. #18
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    just a quick note on noisy auto. try and get a v8 rear pipe asembly it has a larger muffler. mine was like yours and a bit too droney?(is that even a word!!!!)
    i fitted a v8 rear pipe and have found it alot better. what egt gauges has everyone got? trying to to decide ems2 or aurtron boost/egt. cheers ben

  9. #19
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    My understanding was that v8 and td5 used the same pipework and boxes from the middle muffler back, but I'm happy if that is wrong. Do you know what the v8 pn# are by any chance?

    Edit: all td5's and d2a v8's use the same part for rear pipes and box. Pre-facelift v8's use a different pn.

  10. #20
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    not sure of the part number, i got one of a wrecker. you could see if someone with a v8 would swap?

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