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Thread: Steering wheel - cover; replace etc

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth WA 6149
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    1,308
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    Quote Originally Posted by clubagreenie View Post
    That looks incredibly like mine (sans extra material). Was it custom steering? If so was it a good fit or did it have some looseness to it, and did it work first time or did you work from the bottom and have an excess of material at the end?
    Hi

    Yes it was custom steering. The link is in my first post on the previous page. It was a good fit and from memory I only had 1 or 2 stitches of misalignment at the end, which was easily tightened by putting some extra stitches either side of the spokes.

    Yes Paul a bit saggy baggy but @ $30 and an hour or so to fit it will do nicely until a genuine one in good nick appears.

    Cheers

    Steve

    Ps apologies for extra post can't work out how to double quote on this iPad

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Tewantin (NOOSA area)
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    636
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    Years ago my local motor trimmer sent mine to Adelaide to a company that does/did them for the General/HSV. Came back schmick! Leather the correct colour. Then $300.

    Just had to sit and look at the shaft for a couple of weeks.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    4,853
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    Mine had the saggy baggy look, like an elephants ass. After about a year it's come good, still a bit loose but at the rear where you don't notice. I could get it replaced (he offered a replacement with the new measurements) but can't be bothered. I could just shorten it myself but cant be bothered pulling the stitches. I'm curious, did you start from the bottom or top? And if at the bottom, did you have to work at the top section to get it right. I tried everything to get it right, first try started on left and had a heap of material at right left over, then started at centre and worked out, had bags on both side (though smaller), then at sides in (beg in centre). Even pulled it off (get your mind out of the gutter), and marked the stitches to make sure it was aligned perfectly. In the end, just left the stitching open at the end and have let it shrink and its ok.

    Have since acquired an old Singer leather/canvas sewing machine so might have to re sew it.

    Also does anyone know where I can buy leather for making gaiters from? Heavy stuff isn't an issue but the nice soft stuff is.

    Love the brown leather shift knobs, pity mines an auto and has black leather on the auto shifter otherwise I'd have a trans knob. Did they come in factory leather?

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Perth WA 6149
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    Gwad now you're stretching my grey matter.

    From memory I did the bottom first to make sure that the join was centred then either side and finally the top. Mine had to be stretched slightly to fit on the wheel and the the thread pulled tightly to get a neat join as there was a 1 or 2mm gap, when wrapped round. I didn't have any major saggy baggy problems except a wee bit round the top left spoke where I finished. A bit of wriggling and some extra stitching around the spokes to pull it more tightly together solved the problem. I seem to recall I did do a bit of jiggling as I went though.

    Steve

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    Sounds like you got a post revised measurements c/- my too big model.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    lethbridge
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    785
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    gaiters

    Look on ebay. After you have trawled through several pages of manual sets of gaiters , you will find an auto set. I know because this is what I did last week. They are very good
    I found it from top gaiters 196305. It cost $11.98 + $6.15 postage.
    Code #23059589938

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