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Thread: Cool running ATF

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Cool running ATF

    One for the tauto transmission gurus!
    I have an extra transmission cooler with auto fan fitted to aid in towing for the trip around the corner.
    My transmission oil now runs rock steady at 60 degrees celcius in urban/suburban running around. Only once I start really working it does it move higher.
    Q - I have read the operating temp range, but could this be considered too cool, or is it the case that as long as the oil gets "warmed" all is well?
    I don't have any gear changing issues as yet - at 160K and hoping Murphy is not hanging around/listening.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  2. #2
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    Pics of the cooler and location?

    running at that temp I'm guessing the original cooler is now doing double duty,, auto fluid and coolant
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
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  3. #3
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    nope thats good drills....

    anything over 160 is bad anything below is good.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  4. #4
    schuy1 Guest
    I thought the auto had a thermostat for the cooler located at the takeoff point on the box? Or am I thinking of the manual? I doubt that temp will do much harm if aas you say it still shifts ok and does get warmer when you work it. Remember that oils are designed to flow at cold startup.

    Cheers Scott

  5. #5
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    no thermostat (well, RAVE doesnt show it).
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  6. #6
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    Hi Gavin,

    I sent you the following via a PM, however given the replies to your original question, I thought I would post it on the forum as others may be interested in the answers.

    My question is where did you fit yours? I have had a look at the amount of space behind the grill of my D2 and although I can get the unit in there, it is tight with only about 10 mm between the existing fan and the back of the proposed additional cooler. My understanding is that is too tight (recommended 25mm), so I would be interested to know how you went about this.

    The other question was to do with fittings on the hoses - did you use hydraulic fittings or just 'push on fittings' (Hose Barbs) with clamps.

    My preference is to continue to run the ATF through the existing cooler and then through the additional cooler on its return to the gearbox, so if you have done the same, which line is the 'outlet' for the existing cooler or did you just by-pass the existing cooler altogether?

    As Pedro said, 'any pics'?

    Regards
    Ian

  7. #7
    schuy1 Guest
    Yes Pedro, I looked AFTER I posted :/ and could not find any apart from the temp sensor in the cooler. so they must reckon its not a problem

    Cheers Scott

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanP View Post
    As Pedro said, 'any pics'?
    Pics, dammit, where are the pics?!?
    Regards, Will

    Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
    LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
    Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by IanP View Post
    Hi Gavin,

    I sent you the following via a PM, however given the replies to your original question, I thought I would post it on the forum as others may be interested in the answers.

    My question is where did you fit yours? I have had a look at the amount of space behind the grill of my D2 and although I can get the unit in there, it is tight with only about 10 mm between the existing fan and the back of the proposed additional cooler. My understanding is that is too tight (recommended 25mm), so I would be interested to know how you went about this.

    The other question was to do with fittings on the hoses - did you use hydraulic fittings or just 'push on fittings' (Hose Barbs) with clamps.

    My preference is to continue to run the ATF through the existing cooler and then through the additional cooler on its return to the gearbox, so if you have done the same, which line is the 'outlet' for the existing cooler or did you just by-pass the existing cooler altogether?

    As Pedro said, 'any pics'?

    Regards
    Ian
    OK, I'll do some pics. Wll give me the opportunity to test myself at posting them.
    Dave was the one that picked up the intent of my question - I was concerned I might be running a bit too cool - and hence by inference might benefit from a cutoff or similar.

    With the mods I now have a complete additional radiator (in addition to the standard stuff) along with an oversize TD5Alive intercooler, so its getting a bit tight in there.
    As I said to Ian, I'm not that capable and I had the job done professionally by the local experts Automatic Transmissions R Us in Balcatta (and which included cutting cross members etc). All up cost was about 1,800, including fitting an additional temp sensor (welded nut into AT sump) and guage. I also had the larger TC finned sump fitted at the same time.
    Part of the exercise included upgrading all the AT fittings - don't ask me what to, but I'm assured I won't have the dreaded drop ATF from split/broken hose connection issue.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    Pic, more pics

    Not sure what I'm looking for, and the exercise was complicated bythe presence of the bull bar, sump guard and spot lights, plus new welding cables for multi Anderson plugs/front winch mount, but hopefully these 4 pics have loaded. The undershot one was after I poked the camera through a slot in the bull bar, and the other 3 necessitated removal of headlight protectors and the radiator grill.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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