Thread: changing power steering fluid

Not the best way but the easiest. Extract fluid using syringe from reservoir to low level then add fresh fluid, run engine for 10min repeat for a litre or two.
I used this when fluid was only warm.
Orcon Mixing Syringe - 80ml - Supercheap Auto Australia

I need to change my power steering fluid also , will try this method seems easy , not sure which brand of fluid to use.

The best way is to jack the front end up and place on axle stands.

Remove the return line to the PAS reservoir, cap the spigot with a plastic cap, (don't know what the size is on a DII, on a DI/RRC/Deefer it's 1/2") drop the flexible line towards the ground and extend into a large container with some hard line, eg. copper tube.

Have about 4 litres of fluid and another person on standby.

Start engine, and while one person swings the wheels onto full lock and holds there for several seconds, alternating sides, the other continually replenishes the PAS reservoir with fresh fluid.

When you have 3.5 litres or so gone through, shut everything down and hook the hoses back up, top off the reservoir, de-grease and hose everything off and you are done.

The system is totally flushed and any contaminants flushed away too.

My full flush method is a hybrid method of the 2 ways described above.

• Jack up the front end of the vehicle, secure on jackstands
• Drain all the oil out of the reservoir(I use my brake sucker with an extension hose I push down into the pickup)
• remove the pickup hose from the bottom of the reservior
• attach the pick up hose to a syphon line from your replacement oil source (I use a 5l bottle with a u bend pipe and a flex hose OR a spigot on the bottom of a 20l drum)
• place a hose from the bottom of the reservoir to your waste oil container, make sure the hose is secure and the container is larger than your supply
• Start the syphon (often not required, the PS pump will usually draw the fluid itself)
• start the engine
• 5 cycles of lock

to lock with the engine at idle

Restore the hoses to their original locations, top up the reservoir then start the engine, 5 more turns of lock to lock and check for leaks, recheck the oil level and then let it sit for 30 minutes before a final check of the oil level.

On my vehicles I simply run a progressive change, every service I pull the reservoir oil out and replace it.

The only part I buy from the dealer is the PAS fluid I take in a bottle and they refill it. About $10 a ltr. Mainly because I have ace and want to put the correct stuff in that . I had a noisy pump when I bought the car put the correct fluid from the dealer and that noise is gone now. It is the same or cheaper then ATF
Matt

Originally Posted by mattg

The only part I buy from the dealer is the PAS fluid I take in a bottle and they refill it. About $10 a ltr. Mainly because I have ace and want to put the correct stuff in that . I had a noisy pump when I bought the car put the correct fluid from the dealer and that noise is gone now. It is the same or cheaper then ATF
Matt

Good idea.

Most ATF's don't have the additives that reduce/eliminate the squark and groan PAS systems seem to induce, and a 'normal' ATF can make the steering feel a little inconsistent IME too.

Penrite make a Texaco Cold Climate/ACE compatible fluid (although I've never tried it) and Castrol Transmax Z is a good substitute too.

While not having tried it (so far) a Tractor UTTO (Universal Tractor Transmission Oil) in the right viscosity would be the ultimate ACE/PAS fluid IMO. They are a dual purpose gear/hydraulic/transmission fluid.

All the right additives to eliminate squark, groan and chatter and loaded with far more anti-wear and EP additives than any ATF ever had.

For my Defender the owners book says Dexron IID IIE or III

4l Castrol Dexron III is on sale at Supercheap Auto 34.99 atm

Originally Posted by goingbush

For my Defender the owners book says Dexron IID IIE or III

4l Castrol Dexron III is on sale at Supercheap Auto 34.99 atm

TD5's on (and my late Tdi) came with Caltex/Texaco Cold Climate PAS 14315 (semi-synthetic) which did work better than a Dex II/III in my experience for the reasons listed above.

That has been superseded and can't recall what the current designation is.