Thread: Oddball Won't Start Issue??

Electronic interference with the security system, your re-start method was the correct solution.

Originally Posted by bsperka

Went for a run with the TD5 on the weekend. Parked it and over the next few hours slowly got stuff out, using all of the doors, especially from the back door. Went to restart it to go out for dinner. Cranks like a banshee but would not start.

Originally Posted by bsperka

No security lights flashing.
No inertia switch issue.
Obviously a good battery as it was cranking like no tomorrow.
Got out the nanocom - no engine faults. (but I didn't check the BCU for faults).
No real chance of RF interference, and this has different symptoms usually (no cranking is one).

By this time, we were getting ready to use another car and would have to run two vehicles to dinner, as 6 people were going. So, closed the door, locked the vehicle, waited for a few seconds, unlocked it and started first turn. Worked fine the rest of the weekend, so....it was a master reset of the BCU (sort of).

Any thoughts, theories or explanations on what the fault may have been, because it has me stumped. Perhaps an immobiliser issue, but no security lights to indicate this?

This has happened to me a few times when she cuts out after startup. I now know to get out, lock and unlock and she'll fire no problem - no idea why but as long as the quick fix works, no worries.

check the fuel pump relay.


On troublesome vehicles I've taken to fitting a pair of 12V bezel leds to it.

one from the signal wire and one to the output down to the pump. if you only get one then the relay has not closed (carbon fouled contacts) if you get neither then you have an isolation/ignition/inertia problem.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

check the fuel pump relay.


On troublesome vehicles I'vetaken to fitting a pair of 12V bezel leds to it.

one from the signal wire and one to the output down to the pump. if you only get one then the relay has not closed (carbon fouled contacts) if you get neither then you have an isolation/ignition/inertia problem.

Could hear the fuel pump working away, so don't think it was the pump...

Originally Posted by Nicky

Electronic interference with the security system, your re-start method was the correct solution.

I was on the top of a hill, next to a house with next to no electronics. Next house is about 400m away. The symptoms are different from when I had radio interference.... It's very odd, especially as I've parked in the same spot over a dozen times in the past.... So, most probs not...

Originally Posted by bsperka

I was on the top of a hill, next to a house with next to no electronics. Next house is about 400m away. The symptoms are different from when I had radio interference.... It's very odd, especially as I've parked in the same spot over a dozen times in the past.... So, most probs not...

Home or commercial security systems, when turned on, do this to some anti-theft devices.

Hello bsperka,

Try jiggling(remove and inspect also) the connector to the fuel injection on the head. It worked for me. The same was happening to me in the weeks following a loom replacement for the injectors, there was lots of oil leaching back into the plug from the loom in the engine bay.

Cheers,

Jason

I had the same happen to me today. I was going to start a new thread and spotted this. I went to the shops today and after parking and alighting the vehicle I noticed that I was a bit close to the vehicle in front. I jumped back in to reverse a bit, only to find it would not start.

It cranked over that fast if it had of been a manual I reckon I could have driven home on the starter motor.

I decided to do my shopping then ring SWMBO to bring me my Nanocom. When I got back in the car(which I had not locked) about 20 minutes later I jumped in and I thought I might lock and unlock the vehicle to see if it would go. Bingo, started as normal. I just wish that I had tried it first before the lock/unlock.