Many Thanks Mundy
No rush, this is a job I'm not planning to get to till mid year.
Cheers
Steve
Steve,
Will pull out again and take photos for you. You'll have to wait till the weekend though.
Cheers
Many Thanks Mundy
No rush, this is a job I'm not planning to get to till mid year.
Cheers
Steve
Steve,
Sorry for the delay but got caught up last weekend.
1.The first photo shows the Autoleads PC99-X30 steering wheel interface (swi) adapter (in middle), the harness adapter (on left) and the patch lead (on right). The harness adapter that came with the swi was ordered with ISO plugs on either end. The Autoleads website says this is for 1999 to 2001 D2 but I have a 2004 base model Disco which has ISO plugs. Their website says the 2001 to 2005 D2 has BMW round pin plug which, if that is what you have, you require, I believe the PC99-X14. It may depend on whether you have the base model, S or SE.
2. Initially I bought an AERPRO harness adapter, shown in the second picture, to connect the new head unit to the swi harness adapter. There was a harness adapter provided with the head unit but in lieu of the 2 ISO plugs on left in picture, there were only bare end wires and I wanted to avoid soldering all the wires.
3. The third picture shows the swi, patch lead and the 2 harness adapters connected. The installation instructions for the JVC head unit were vague. The patch lead was, I thought, supposed to connect into the rear auxiliary socket of the head unit. But having put it all together the head unit worked but the steering controls didn’t.
I was then advised the orange wire on the patch lead has to be connected to one of the wires on the head unit harness adapter and to ignore the other patch lead plug. Unfortunately the AERPRO harness didn’t have that wire. So I used the harness provided with the head unit and cut off the ISO plugs on the swi harness and soldered the wires together and covered with heat shrink. In the picture above, if you can imagine the circled plugs being cut off and the respective wires soldered together, that’s what it looks like.
[I decided not to remove the head unit and photo the actual final arrangement as it was quite difficult to get the head unit to slide in place with all the extra wires and swi.]
4. The orange patch lead wire came with a female round pin crimp connector and the wire on the head unit harness required a male connector. This is because you have to connect and power up the head unit before you connect the patch lead to the head unit, otherwise it doesn’t work correctly.
5. Finally, my original head unit has a rubber ‘finger’, about 1cm in diameter and 5cm in length, in the middle of the rear of the unit, which fits into a hole in a bracket in the dash. I assume it is a vibration absorbing thing. My new head unit came with a bracket on the rear with an M4 screw tapped hole. I bought an M4 screw of suitable length, a lock nut and used some locktite connect the rubber finger onto the rear of the new head unit. Whatever you buy, you need to ensure you can fit the rubber finger.
If you need any more assistance please ask or pm me.
Regards
Mundy
Hi Mundy
Much appreciated! That's a great write up and good pics. It will be a great help to all of us doing a head unit upgrade.
Many thanks again
Steve
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