Thread: how much to replace / reco valve body in d2a transmission???

Have you done a stall test ?

From the workshop manual: Stall Testing
1. Chock the wheels and fully apply the
handbrake.
2. Start the engine and run it until it reaches
normal operating temperature.
3. Apply the footbrake and select 'D'.
4. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and note
the tachometer reading. The figures should be
as given below. Do not carry out stall test for
longer than 10 seconds, and DO NOT repeat
until 30 minutes have elapsed.
V8: 2200 to 2400 rev/min
Diesel: 2600 to 2800 rev/min
5. A reading below 1300 rev/min indicates a
torque converter fault, ie stator free-wheel.
6. A reading between 1300 and 2200 rev/min (V8)
or between 1300 and 2600 rev/min (Diesel)
indicates reduced engine power.
7. A reading above 2400 rev/min (V8) or above
2800 rev/min (Diesel) indicates clutch slip.
NOTE: The figures quoted above were
measured at sea level with an ambient
temperature of 20°C (68°F). At higher altitudes
or higher ambient temperatures, these figures
will be reduced.

Have you checked the transmission ECU for fault codes?

The first sign that my transmission was on the way out was when occasionally it wouldn't shift into 4th. (approx 207000Km)
Eventually it was slipping at up to 3200 RPM on start - diagnosis = worn out clutch pack - fix = exchange transmission from ZF with selector switch and torque converter - Cost = $3000 plus fitting.

Hi Gary

No, I have not looked at the stall test as it has only started doing it after the car had the auto and transfer case out to fix oil leaks and just spoke to the mechanic today and thats what he has initially thought the issue may be.

I am hoping that it is not the clutch packs althought ashcroft do sell a rebuiild kit for 195 pounds so thats not too bad as opposed to $3000 exchange as will not be paying that at all...

Thanks for the advice and will disucss the stall test with my mechanic when he calls me on Thursday.

Cheers