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Thread: Red light on A.C.E.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    4,853
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    I'll have to look under mine to confirm but I think they're a welded cylinder. You might find a hydraulic specialist that will open up and replace the seals and weld back up. But it might be a rod issue, if they corrode then it'll need grinding and rechroming. Then it'd be cheaper for a new one. Check the top (rod) end and see if the cylinder end is welded in or screwed in. If welded check the other end, they occasionally open at the other end and the rod pushes out the bottom.

    If it can be done or you want to try let me know. I used to work in the field and can point you to some shops.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    sydney
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    ok.. so ive decided to change the actuator myself. i need urgent advise on which oil i should put in the ace system, one which i can find at supercheap auto or something.

    actuator : $200 ace filter $75

    and also i would need the system bled.. i live in auburn, sydney ..

    thanks

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    4,853
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    I have a Nanocom and am in seven hills if you want to come over. The oil, only use the LR oil, unless you can drain the whole system, then Penrite make one that's suitable but I actually called then about compatibility and there was some hesitation and avoidance of the question. I have a contact that can get the oil at better than dealer pricing.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    sydney
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    i just pulled everything apart, i struggled a lot with the lower bolt of the actuator it was jammed in the bush. the bush has had it . $250 for LR and $150 OEM. so i went for oem because im not rich.

    so tomorrow im gonna go to st peters with the whole anti roll arm, get the bush fitted, pick up my actuator and ace filter, come home and put it all back together. and then i can think about bleeding. if you can help me with that will be much appreciated.

    i'll probably go with penrite oil cause i already mixed some cheap power steering fluid into it yesterday just to make it home without running the pump dry.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    204
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    I have returned from work early due to cyclone , so today i thought i would have a closer look at the ace problem. I can see a couple of bushes need replacing but everything else looks fine. I pulled all the electrical conections out of the valve block and sprayed with co cleaner , re conected and ran thruogh the tests on the valves with the nanocom started up and i couldn't believe it ! No light and no worries with the ace . I don't know what fixed it but i'm happy it is fixed . All the electric plugs looked clean and tight but maybe there was some poor conection . I think i will change the filter and oil as i think it must be due . Thanks for the help guys , fingers crossed it lasts like this .

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    38
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    my leak was nearly impossible to detect. why? because when the actuator gave way it started leakin in to the rubber boot. no evidence of fluid..
    i recon that boot can take at least 200ml of fluid before it bursts.

    secondly the fluid level comes back to normal if you stop the engine. when i started the engine i just saw the resevoir drain,..

    so to conclude.. if your losing ace fluid and you cant find a leak anywhere, the fluid might be in your boots

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tamworth
    Posts
    204
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    I'm pretty sure mine is not due to low fluid .I have watched the level with the motor running and looks fine . I really don't know what happened to mine but it is a bit of a worry. I'm happy that it is working fine now but if it is a faulty part , no doubt it will fail again and who knows when or where !

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