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Thread: Modified Voyager Rover Rack Setup - lights, jack, jerry can, awning, tent and Maxitra

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob10 View Post
    How much weight do you have on the rack, please, if you don't mind me asking, and which King springs do you have? I'm considering my options, now I have arranged purchase of roof racks myself, Bob
    I run the King Springs EHD (Extra Heavy Duty). They're a 40mm lift and handle the weight of the bullbar, winch, snorkel, dual battery, etc. I like the current King Springs designs....

    The rack fully loaded is probably around 100kg including the weight of the rack. I only load it to the point in the photographs above.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistajoel View Post
    I'm looking at getting an awning from tigerz11 just like yours, would you recommend them, quality wise?

    I camp in a few windy spots, do you think they hold up to the wind ok?
    The maiden voyage was to The Falls Festival in Marion Bay, Tasmania. We set it up in drunkenness and forgot to peg it down. About an hour later it got picked up and moved - minor damage. Pegged it down and despite the big winds all weekend it held strong.

    Quality - for the price I paid I am very happy with the quality. I have not looked at any other awnings so I can't compare it.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex 110 View Post
    quote: 100w Narva globes for a total of 400w. I'm probably going to have to do something about this though as at present the voltage drops to 11.6v at idle if they are turned on along with the standard headlights, bright beams and driving lights

    You only get about 10% more light from 100w globes compared to 55w (this used to be the case, maybe new globes are brighter), reflector size is more important than watts for light output, and with your lighting setup you probably could get away with lower wattage globes.
    Or even LED conversion!
    I don't think I want to go LED, as I believe it's not good to mix different light types - halogen, LED and HID, as the frequency and colours are different. I've been in a vehicle driving along on HID driving lights and when they've been turned off back to normal halogen driving lights, it was so hard to see as the eyes had adjusted.

    What I think I will do is replace the globes in the driving lights with something like Narva Plus 120's ( http://narva.com.au/products/browse/...globes#anchor5 ). These are just 55w globes, but are significantly more expensive and meant to put out a lot more light (120% more). The lower w as you have pointed out should resolve the battery voltage issue.

  4. #14
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    Oct 2011
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    twr7cx quote - What I think I will do is replace the globes in the driving lights with something like Narva Plus 120's ( http://narva.com.au/products/browse/...globes#anchor5 ). These are just 55w globes, but are significantly more expensive and meant to put out a lot more light (120% more).

    If I remember correctly, it is you that has already done the headlight relay update for D2a lights? I've put in 4 x +100% headlight upgrades as some on the site said the +120% tend to blow out fairly regularly. BUT I'VE STILL TO DO THE SWITCH/RELAY UPGRADE!!!
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  5. #15
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    Would love to see some close up pics of the set up for the maxtrax please

    "Some people walk in the rain,others just get wet!" -Roger Miller

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by malleefowl View Post
    Would love to see some close up pics of the set up for the maxtrax please
    I bought the mount points from ARB. They are proper Maxitrac ones (you can find them listed on their website). Cut and welded some strips to mount them on - I think the pins can hold up to 4 Maxitracs.





  7. #17
    Tombie Guest

    I like it... Nice rig!

    Quote Originally Posted by Alex 110 View Post
    You only get about 10% more light from 100w globes compared to 55w (this used to be the case, maybe new globes are brighter), reflector size is more important than watts for light output, and with your lighting setup you probably could get away with lower wattage globes.
    On this bit... Watts mean nothing but power consumption figures and really shouldnt be used for measuring light output..

    Lumen/Watt is a far better calculation... (Example only - not real figures)

    If say, you have a far better Xenon bulb pulling 55w @ 30 lumen/watt you get 1650 lumen of light output

    If you have a 100w bulb @ 22 lumen/watt you get 2200 lumen of light output.

    Or... 33% more light for 80% more power consumption


    How that light is then utilised is up to reflector / lens design

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    On this bit... Watts mean nothing but power consumption figures and really shouldnt be used for measuring light output..

    Lumen/Watt is a far better calculation... (Example only - not real figures)
    I appreciate what you are saying there, but how do you tell what the lumen/watt rating of a globe is? Narva don't list it for their sites - Performance Globes - Products - Narva

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