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Thread: mea culpa Philip A has bought a DIESEL

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eevo View Post
    but do remember to pull over to let the traffic pass you
    mate I'd've put my td5 up against anything you v8 mob had to offer. (then i had to sell it to support he missus ability to offload fluid assests)

    I'd still be game to put my tdi200 up against a v8 of the same group
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    The D2 and I have NOT got off to a good start.

    The radio doesnt work either . Dead as a dodo so probably a fuse but none of the fuses underbonnet were labelled radio.
    Oh the joy of buying second hand cars.

    Regards Philip A
    If its the same as mine under the dash, radio (and clock) is listed as fuse number 16 [15A], plus check fuse number 33 [10A] which can affect radio and starting as I found out via dswatts the other day
    Last edited by gavinwibrow; 18th February 2013 at 07:43 PM. Reason: addn info
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  3. #23
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    mea culpa Philip A has bought a DIESEL

    Philip,

    Sounds like a bit of neglect coupled with age.

    I recently replaced the earth lead on mine due to the clamp freezing but it was getting badly frayed near the point it mounts to body.

    You'll find that the ecu's will throw faults when the voltage drops below a certain point. The auto shows m & s fault when the battery drops below 11.5v for example.

    I wouldn't be too concerned about the 3amigos as it will most likely be voltage related.

    Its worth having a read through the owners manual at least once. It will save a lot of frustration in the short term, and you'll get a better idea of the bells and whistles.

    Cheers
    Paul

  4. #24
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    mea culpa Philip A has bought a DIESEL

    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    If its the same as mine under the dash, radio (and clock) is listed as fuse number 16 [15A], plus check fuse number 33 [10A] which can affect radio and starting as I found out via dswatts the other day
    They are all the essentially the same, so fuse locations etc are valid across all the MY's.

  5. #25
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    if you suspect ages of neglect...

    service the cooling system NOW... especially the secret heater hose everyone forgets about.

    oh and you'll probably find that the alternators not up to snuff if it died while the engine was making good RPMS.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #26
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    mea culpa Philip A has bought a DIESEL

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if you suspect ages of neglect...

    service the cooling system NOW... especially the secret heater hose everyone forgets about.

    oh and you'll probably find that the alternators not up to snuff if it died while the engine was making good RPMS.
    Or Philip could do the sensible thing and spend a little time with the vehicle and identify issues that actually need attention.

  7. #27
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    Once I made up a new earth lead and gave the battery a 20amp smart charge all night, she is going like a train. I have fitted a Megapulse I had lying around.

    I don't know how old the battery is so I will check voltage this Afternoon, but it took charge for several hours before float so it maybe is not too sulphated. Its an N70Z with 650CCA so a bit smaller than recommended , and the battery tray is ENORMOUS, at 340Mm long. No battery hold down. how slack is that?
    I hope the battery lasts until I get my ARB battery tray as I want to see whether I can fit a starting battery big enough in the ARB tray, and fit a BIG AGM in the original tray as an AGM would hate to be next to the turbo. Anyone done that?

    The radio works today after I input the security code. LOL. The PO must not have input the code after a previous low battery. The AM performance is quite a bit better than the Pioneer in my RRC. Good old Eurovox. They made quality gear and that is why I fitted them as OEM in BMWs back in the 80s.

    The amigos and all warnings go out in a couple of seconds after switch on.

    I must say I am impressed with the get up and go. A liitle turbo lag but it goes fine and probably better than my Thor manifold v8 at lower revs, even not in "s". Much better than expected. maybe its the extra 40nm in the EU3 auto.

    Doesn't sound all that good compared to a V8, and filling it up was a trial today with diesel dribbling on the car and wrestling with the stiff hose.

    Turning circle with the 18s is pathetic and worse than my RRC but 16s should fix that.
    Overall so far I am a happy camper with my decision.
    Regards Philip A

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    I don't know how old the battery is so I will check voltage this Afternoon, but it took charge for several hours before float so it maybe is not too sulphated. Its an N70Z with 650CCA so a bit smaller than recommended , and the battery tray is ENORMOUS, at 340Mm long. No battery hold down. how slack is that?
    I hope the battery lasts until I get my ARB battery tray as I want to see whether I can fit a starting battery big enough in the ARB tray, and fit a BIG AGM in the original tray as an AGM would hate to be next to the turbo. Anyone done that?
    I'm running one of these Enex D31MF starter/deepcycle batteries in the main tray: Battery: E-NEX DC31MF, E-ENEX Dual Purpose Batteries, DC31MF

    I have a supercharge MSV48 60ah battery in the ARB tray. I've got the stock track, but it really needs extra heat shielding when you are working the motor hard.

    This kind of setup runs really well with one of Drivesafe's USI-160 or SC-80 controllers which run both batteries down until 12V when it switches out the starter.

    cheers
    Paul

  9. #29
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    Phillip the turning circle for 18's is an easy fix,,
    but if you are going to fit 16's hang off,,
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Yes I saw that sell price and wondered when I saw the earlier post and am planning to go to my closest ARB store to check.
    You don't seem to be able to order ARB stuff on line from a dealer . Is that correct?
    Regards Philip A
    They'll generally try and sell you the piranha one which is I think around $180. You have to say to them No I want the ARB branded one which some ARB staff don't even relise they sell. IMO a better product that comes with a heat shield of sorts. Good luck with it mate.

    Steve

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