I used temporary boost guage and disconnected the modulator to set. Guage is cheap or borrow one of a mate with a turbo.![]()
Evening all.
Tomorrow morning as I've got the day off, looking to get the D2 a bit more drivable for my trip to sydney on friday.
One thing I'd planned to do before my Viscous fan bearing detonated was upping my boost, although the whole "low vs high EGT" (More boost = lower EGTs = turbo working harder (earlier?) = bit more zap but not much, someone please correct me if I'm wrong, or point me in the direction of a good turbo/boost thread) thing had me a bit confused
I'm thinking what I'll do is mark the nut twice, white for a full turn and red for a half turn, and put it up 1.5 turns at the start.
Nice hill just down the road so I'll nail it up that, come back, increase it half a turn, back to the hill, etc until I hit overboost.
Any issues with doing it this way?
I know it'd be ideal using a nanocom or similar but funds are scraped a bit thin ATM.
I used temporary boost guage and disconnected the modulator to set. Guage is cheap or borrow one of a mate with a turbo.![]()
i do not know the proper answer on this only that i am winding mine out 1 turn every no and then and still not hit overboost.
i do have a bas boost box fitted and boost guage pre i/c showing 21psi at full throttle? might wind it out a bit more before the weekend.![]()
Shortening a turn and going for a run is fine. A Nanocom or similar is better, but I know you don't have one.
Just a reminder that if you have it right on the edge of over boost on say a 35 degree day, you may get over boost fault regularly on cooler days so may have to back it off 1/4 in this case.
Cheers
I'd be careful going beyond 21psi. TD5Alive/Alive Tuning recommend only 18psi as the safe limit. In saying that BAS recommend up to 22psi with their VNT conversions.
Why is your boost gauge pre-intercooler? this is an irrelevant figure (unless you are measuring the pressure drop over the intercooler), you want to know the actual boost pressure going into the engine which you need to measure at the inlet manifold (either drill and tap a fitting into the inlet manifold or get an EGR removal kit with a fitting for the gauge).
Hmm.
Had a go at it today. Lock nut took a fair bit to shift, shaft twisted a bit despite vice grips but hopefully that's not going to cause issues.
Couldn't move the furled nut at all.
I gave it a bit of a squirt to try and loosen them up so I might try later.
http://www.alivetuning.com/alive-bou...tion-Guide.pdf
alivetuning state only 2 psi pressure drop. If you have no inlet manifold test connection then pre i/c is all you can do!
Best leave it as is then.![]()
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