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Thread: 2nd battery set up, battery box & CTEK charger ?

  1. 21st April 2013, 09:59 AM #1
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    2nd battery set up, battery box & CTEK charger ?

    Spoke to opposite lock recently about a 2nd battery setup, they put forward a battery box , with an AGM 120 AH battery [ safe for inside the D2, in the back], the box having 2 outlets, one small outlet for a fridge, one larger outlet, cig. lighter size, coupled with a CTEK D250S dual battery charger. The CTEK has a connection for solar power, they say CTEK has an auxiliary input which can be connected directly to solar panels without the need for a regulator, the CTEK has a built in Maximum Power Point Tracker, which searches for the most effective combination of solar cell voltage & current, ensuring the solar & alternator function work in unison to maximise power output. Recommended, or not? Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
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  2. 21st April 2013, 12:04 PM #2
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    The only problem I can see is the ctek has a maximum charge of 20amp so will take a long time to recharge the battery.

    Dont know what price arb quoted but I have been lookig at these or one of drivesafes setups

    FLYER MK3


    Edit both tim(drivesafe) and derek (derekb) are on this forum so you can PM either with any questions
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  3. 21st April 2013, 12:37 PM #3
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    CTEK have the "Smartpass" which is designed to be used with the D250S and allows charging at up to 80A. When you use both together the smartpass bulk charges, and when the battery is close to full it hands over to the D250S for maintenance charging. It also gives you a low voltage cutout protected output for your powered devices. It's a pretty neat bit of kit and could be actually used for a basic DBS standalone.

    SMARTPASS

    The downside is to get the best out of either device you need both which makes it a $400-500 investment on the control electronics alone.

    cheers
    Paul
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  4. 21st April 2013, 12:53 PM #4
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    Thanks for the advice, like anything, it comes down to what you can afford, I guess, but it may be worthwhile saving up for the better quality gear. I will PM Drivesafe and see what he has to offer, Bob edit... DBS standalone? could you please explain.
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
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  5. 21st April 2013, 01:15 PM #5
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    What I mean is the smartpass can work as a battery isolator with low voltage protect for the connected accessories without the D250S.

    This page has some good information on how the system works:
    http://www.baintech.com.au/smartpass


    That said I'm running one of drivesafe's USI-160 systems and have been very happy with that.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/1...-isolator.html


    cheers
    Paul
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  6. 21st April 2013, 02:03 PM #6
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    Hi Bob and a few questions for you that may help you decide which set up best suits your needs.

    Is this your everyday drive vehicle?

    Can you check your operating voltage. This is best done after you have been driving constantly for at least 30 minutes, then pull up, leave the motor running but turn everything off, such as lights, A/C, sound system and so on.

    Then measure the voltage at your cranking battery terminals.

    With the battery in the cargo area, is it a permanent mount or one you want to remove at times?

    These question will lead you to the amount of power your set up will be capable of supplying you with.

    For Land Rover Specific Dual Battery Systems and Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits,
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  7. 21st April 2013, 02:59 PM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi Bob and a few questions for you that may help you decide which set up best suits your needs.

    Is this your everyday drive vehicle?

    Can you check your operating voltage. This is best done after you have been driving constantly for at least 30 minutes, then pull up, leave the motor running but turn everything off, such as lights, A/C, sound system and so on.

    Then measure the voltage at your cranking battery terminals.

    With the battery in the cargo area, is it a permanent mount or one you want to remove at times?

    These question will lead you to the amount of power your set up will be capable of supplying you with.
    Will do & get back to you, Bob
    I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food

    A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
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